View Full Version : What do you use to hold screws in place ??
Reel Nice
06-16-2009, 12:01 AM
What do you use to hold screws in place on your boat ? I have a few screws that need to be replaced or tightened..I use loctight on my motorcycle but I need something for the fiberglass...:confused::confused::confused:
Eric G
06-16-2009, 12:20 AM
Depending what holding it down...silicone caulk.
For holding power, Minwax High Performance Wood Filler (cheaper version of Marine-Tex) found in the wood filler aisle of Home Depot/Lowes. The color a light tan...
swab1985
06-16-2009, 06:52 AM
5200 it and it wont ever come apart again.... If you looking to just keep them from backing themselves out, just a little clear silicone will keep them in there
Xpress
06-16-2009, 08:46 AM
5200 is top notch. You can make wood adhere to aluminum no problem, and making anything constantly stressed or tweaked stick to aluminum long term can be tricky.
Mike Miskiewicz
06-16-2009, 09:18 AM
As above 5200 but if U think U will have to remove it at some point try caulk. 5200 is very hard to remove. I did how ever find the STRIPEASE work as good as the Kryptonite 5200 remover just be careful it will discolor fiberglass if left on to long but works great for removal or 3M 5200 products from metal.
Reel Nice
06-16-2009, 09:31 AM
Thanks.....
MyTrifecta
06-16-2009, 10:20 AM
I've used marine-tex and it does the job.
If your dealing with securing cover snaps, small screws, etc that won't be taking a lot of torque, another trick I learned a while back that works great is to take toothpicks and elmers clue, jam into the hole and let dry. Use a razor knife to cut off the excess and then your ready to go with your self-tapping screws. I've had snaps hold better after the repair then before!
5200 is only nasty when used over large surface areas. It's perfect for holding screws in that have a tendency to back out. You'll have no problem getting the screws out using it..
5200 fright rears it's ugly head again..
swab1985
06-16-2009, 05:40 PM
5200 is only nasty when used over large surface areas. It's perfect for holding screws in that have a tendency to back out. You'll have no problem getting the screws out using it..
5200 fright rears it's ugly head again..
Tell that to the cooler mounts on top of my commercial box... the mounts deteriorated and broke apart loooooong before the 5200 came off.... Still cant get that stuff off.... and its just a tiny bit!
5200 is some mean stuff
Re-Bait
06-16-2009, 05:58 PM
You can also use plastic countersinks, just cut the tops off at the desired depth
LaceyMarine
06-16-2009, 08:39 PM
5200 would be your best bet. If you are worried about getting them out, use the 4200 instead.
tight lipped
06-16-2009, 09:08 PM
Tell that to the cooler mounts on top of my commercial box... the mounts deteriorated and broke apart loooooong before the 5200 came off.... Still cant get that stuff off.... and its just a tiny bit!
5200 is some mean stuff
Gasoline will eat through it, just don't use it where the vapors can pool or on surfaces that can be damaged by gas. Just let is soak for a bit
If you can you are better off hollowing the hole out and putting a bolt in upside down and filling with epoxy, this way no water will ever get into the wood. If there is no wood and just glass you should through bolt, glass has no holding power and will break up from the stress.
Rageboat
06-16-2009, 10:31 PM
I had a problem screw keep coming out. I drilled the hole out and used a piece of wood dowel with Marine Tex. Once it cured, I ran the new screw into the wood. Pilot drill the screw hole with a small bit. Once the screw goes in, the wood will swell and get even tighter. Never failed after that and could be drilled out if necessary later on. I am a big fan of the toothpick thing too!
Reel Nice
06-16-2009, 10:39 PM
Thanks ..Swim platform ladder has loose screws that must be stripped...
swab1985
06-17-2009, 07:01 AM
Gasoline will eat through it, just don't use it where the vapors can pool or on surfaces that can be damaged by gas. Just let is soak for a bit
If you can you are better off hollowing the hole out and putting a bolt in upside down and filling with epoxy, this way no water will ever get into the wood. If there is no wood and just glass you should through bolt, glass has no holding power and will break up from the stress.
We have done plenty of glass work in our time, including replacing cockpit decks, and actual roof's of cabins that have gone soft.... We can play with this stuff! :D
joe kane
06-17-2009, 07:04 AM
i have a few screws that the screw holes are now larger than the screws in the fiberglass. not a critical spot in that it is only a access panel that is non weight bearing that serves as a drink holder etc. in the past i have done the marinetex then drilling new holes. will the 4200 or 5200 work and be a one step fix? also if i use the 3M products will i be able to get the screws out to remove the panel if needed ?
LaceyMarine
06-17-2009, 07:59 AM
i have a few screws that the screw holes are now larger than the screws in the fiberglass. not a critical spot in that it is only a access panel that is non weight bearing that serves as a drink holder etc. in the past i have done the marinetex then drilling new holes. will the 4200 or 5200 work and be a one step fix? also if i use the 3M products will i be able to get the screws out to remove the panel if needed ?
For just the screw holes you should be fine. If you are going to seal a panel as well, use the 4200. It is not as permanent as the 5200.
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