Simrad GPS will not power up

[Re-Bait]

I have a simrad GPS on my boat. The power post runs 3 machines. My only problem is with the GPS. I can not remove the clip into the electric post, it feels like the connection will tear apart if forced. I have sprayed it repeatedly with WD and it still on pull free.

How can I figure out where the problem lies? The fuses are all AOK...


http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f389/rebait1/52409053.jpg

[High Wire]

First off, there are 4 leads on fuses (positive) but there are 6 leads on the negative bus. 2 of the positive leads are black!!! So is one of the extra 2 black leads really a positive lead and supposed to have been connected onto the bottom 5 amp fuse? Follow the wiring from the device to the fuse block.
The easiest way to pull off these type of terminals is with a pair of needlenose pliers. grip around the barrel of the terminal and slide off at the same angle that the male terminal lies.

[SeaSparks]

OH MY GOD!!!!!!!!!!

Get rid of that fuse block!!! That green stuff growing on it isn't money ;). That thing is severly corroded! Start with a new AGC stlye fuseblock :

http://www.go2marine.com/go2_structure/8/3/2/7/83277F-p.jpg

The blade fuses tend to trap mosture between the contacts and creating corrosion.

You will be amazed how many proplems get cleared up when you have good conections.

Aside from that, take the unit to a Simrad dealer. Most will do a bench check for free while you wait. Then you can narrow the problem down more.

[Capt. Scott]

OH MY GOD!!!!!!!!!!

Get rid of that fuse block!!! That green stuff growing on it isn't money ;). That thing is severly corroded! Start with a new AGC stlye fuseblock :

http://www.go2marine.com/go2_structure/8/3/2/7/83277F-p.jpg

The blade fuses tend to trap mosture between the contacts and creating corrosion.

You will be amazed how many proplems get cleared up when you have good conections.

Aside from that, take the unit to a Simrad dealer. Most will do a bench check for free while you wait. Then you can narrow the problem down more.

I tend to disagree...I love the Blue Seas blade style fuse blocks and have had good luck with them over the last seven years.

The fuse block in the picture is the same used on many Sea Rays and also have given good service if they are not subjected to a lot of salt spray.

Glass style fuses I have had a much higher failure rate with the fuses themselves than with the blade style. Blade style you can remove and replace..... that serves as a cleaning action to some degree where the glass tube style will often break off the glass tube ends if there is any corrosion.

Not many recreational boats are subjected to as harsh as a beating as our Sea Tow boats and the blade style Blue Sea gets my vote hands down.

[SeaSparks]

I tend to disagree...I love the Blue Seas blade style fuse blocks and have had good luck with them over the last seven years.

The fuse block in the picture is the same used on many Sea Rays and also have given good service if they are not subjected to a lot of salt spray.

Glass style fuses I have had a much higher failure rate with the fuses themselves than with the blade style. Blade style you can remove and replace..... that serves as a cleaning action to some degree where the glass tube style will often break off the glass tube ends if there is any corrosion.

Not many recreational boats are subjected to as harsh as a beating as our Sea Tow boats and the blade style Blue Sea gets my vote hands down.


Glad you are having luck with them, but the block in picture is not a blue sea blade holder. I have had more blade fuses break than glass. But then again, anything will break if removed improperly. In fact the blade fuses almost always have a set of holes on them, exposing the link to the environment.

As for the blocks being used on searays you are 100% correct, the only diffrence is a sea ray will sit at the dock 90% of the summer, and even then they are still coated with Corrosion Inhibitor to keep moisture out, so in essence you are comparing apples to bricks, they just aren't even close.

[Re-Bait]

It worked when I took it off, by disconnecting the unit and leaving the (black!) wire to the power post. IF I force the connector off of the post, I'm afraid the post will break off from the fuse block. I guess either way I need to do something about it, so if it does break, I'm no worse off.

Guess I was thinking whether I should test the positive connection with a test light or something simple....

I'd be happy to give you a work order if you ever come down LBI (beach Haven) way Sea Sparks Joe. I have a few electrical issues going on (wrong!) and would like to mount an old Furuno 1650 DGPS as a redundant backup....The boat was completely rewired in 2003....

Dave b
484 410 0700 cell