Plug Building!?

[chlstn]

The new plug web site is good. It limits our discussion however.
When if at all will we discuss plug building processes, techniques etc.?
There is alot to building a plug. From turning the blank to clear coat to which hook to use
These dissusions are very important to keep up to date.
Anyone?

[the greek]

If anyone has questions or just wants to shoot the breeze ask here I guess. I'm sure there are a few others like yourself that could add a great deal. I am by no means an expert and I learn something new everytime I build a plug. I have been at it for a few years now and have a few things that work for me that I'd be glad to pass on to anyone that wants to know.

[chlstn]

I don't think any one of us will ever be an expert so to speak but collectively we can do it all!
I guess I'll start by asking; What method do you use to seal the wood? Do you use the same method for each type of wood used?

I soak my plug bodies in a mixture of 60% boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. They soak for approx 2 to 3 minutes. Then I wipe off the excess and hang to dry for 4 or 5 days. This methos is used with AYC. If I am using a hardwood like maple or birch (spooks, needles etc) I will soak the plug body for 1/2 hour.

Thanks in advance for the discussion,

Charleston

[ 03-11-2006, 10:44 AM: Message edited by: chlstn ]

[the greek]

I,m using BLO and mineral spirits also. I want to give Waterlox a try at some point but this is working for me now and I'm a creature of habit.

Your plugs are extremely nice by the way.

[Ron Redington]

Originally posted by chlstn:
The new plug web site is good. It limits our discussion however.
Chlstn, I'm glad to see you and some of the others using www.PlugReview.com. (http://www.PlugReview.com.) Seeing all the different plugs and reading the reviews is pretty neat.

The one thing that I would like to make clear to everyone is the fact that Plug Review is not meant to replace forums such as ours here at the Bass Barn.

Plug Review is exactly that. It's a website where we can post our plugs or read reviews on them. Nothing more...nothing less.

The "How To" questions should still be asked here in our forums smile.gif

[chlstn]

greek;
Have you had any failures using the 60/40 BLOand Spirits?
Thanks for the compliments on my plugs. I was building a few today and I am getting very uneasy with my painting. I need to learn to use my airbrush. My color schemes are to bland!!
I have made so many of the Red Sox poppers I am sick of looking at them.

[jumpingjoe]

Charleston,I'm not sure soaking your plugs for a half hour is necessary .What I usualy do is "cut" the mix alittle thinner to get better absorption .Maybe a 50/50 mix or less might soak into the wood better for hardwoods.When mixing my own finishes I usually mix the first coat thin and each coat after a little thicker .

[the greek]

Yes I have had failures with the BLO and MS mix. I can almost say for certain that it was from not waiting long enough for it to dry. I wait a minimum of a week now. I use the gold can Zinsser cover stain for primer. I like this much better than what I was using. I still paint alot with rattle cans, I would say like 75% rattle cans and 25% airbrush. I like the results with the airbrush but I hate the prep and cleanup.

[chlstn]

Jumping;
While I know that the presence of the spirits in the mix is to enhance drying, I never thought about thining it for better absorbtion! Good call.
Greek. A failure caused by not waiting long enough to assure proper drying is an "operator error" smile.gif When I speak of a failure I mean splits in the wood itself from water penetrating the sealed surface. Something caused by the process itself.
In most cases the split will originate from the inside (through hole) providing you have a good clear coat on the outside.
I know what you mean about the prep and cleanup with the air brush. It seems you need to be doing 100 plugs in the same color scheme to make it worth it! However my rattle cans are getting old!

Good conversation guys!

[jumpingjoe]

In most cases the split will originate from the inside Chlstn,I'm a cabinetmaker and I've had similar problems with my furniture and cabinets.Splits or "checks" occur when wood drys out and shrinks in the process.I'm no expert or finishes but it seems some of the more experienced plug makers use waterlox with good success.I use Formby's which is a polyermized tung oil,you might want to try a different type of sealer.

[the greek]

I have many operator errors. My biggest problem is my lack of patience. I have had one split but it was on a totally sealed plug and the lip got loose on it. I also use the BLO mix at 50/50 and I soak the plug and hang it to dry, I don't wipe it off. I started doing that by accident and now thats all I do. No more going to bed and worrying if I got all the rags put away properly so they don't ignite.

[chlstn]

Excellent dialog!!
Jumping; You are right about the shrinking while drying aspect of the wood splitting/cracking. I have had no failures to date but then again I give away (or get Ho'd) most of the stuff I build. So I may not hear of the failure.
I donate alot of plugs to the auctions etc and one day I am going to hear from someone who bid a million and a half $ for one of my plugs saying it split ;) .

greek; I guess you will have to do a little work on the patience thing. I have a suggestion; Fill the pipeline with "inprocess work"! Meaning, you have a bunch turned waiting for drilling, a bunch primes waiting for paint, a bunch painted waiting for clear coat. This way you can go into your shop after dinner and work on any number of operations. Most guys will build a batch and take them from start to finish like their life depended on it!! It's meant to an enjoyabe hobby not a job!
My shop has plugs in all stages of completion and I work on what I feel like at the time. Somedays are just not right for say clear coating so I'll turn. Other days I might have paint drying so I do something that will not kick up dust like clear coating!
Have you guys ever had a thread where the guys post pictures of their shops (man caves smile.gif )?

[Sudsrat]

Originally posted by chlstn:
Have you guys ever had a thread where the guys post pictures of their shops (man caves smile.gif )? Let's see 'um!
:cool:

Steve

[H'Islander]

Most of the names on this thread are relatively familiar. So a lot of you know how I feel about BLO. It's old school. Nothing wrong with that at all if you have patience. Nothing wrong with parchment paper, nothing wrong with witchhazel, nothing wrong with cod liver or castor oil, nothing wrong wityh rectal thermometers (Eeek!)...you get the picture.

Most guys (like me) are so inspired that it's like waiting for christmas morning to finish and swim our plugs. ZERO patience. In the days that followed the advent of BLO many polymers and aother advanced sealers have hit the market. I prefer Val-Oil. It's a Valspar product. It has the properties of BLO, meaning it requires thinning for best penetration (I mix it 50/50 with Mineral Spirits) and it's CURED within 24 hours at room temperature. If you're outside in the cold/damp you should wait 2-3 days. I have not had one have the wood or paint fail on me in over a year now. Additionally, Val-Oil is not prone to spontaneous combustion, but because I don't trust any of that stuff,it all goes into the wood stove at the end of each session.

I did an experiment on wood sealing about a year ago. I dyed various sealers and submerged AYC samples for a few minutes and then dipped other AYC samples for 24 hours. Samples soaked for 24 hours absorbed little or no more than samples soaked for a few minutes.

Just my .02

[LOST A ROD]

I'M NEW TO PLUG BUILDING . SO IF I USE AIR BRUSH . WHAT TYPE OF EQUIPMENT DO YOU FELLOWS USE BE SPECIFIC .IT WOULD HELP ALL OF US TRYING TO LEARN TO SAVE MONEY..

[jumpingjoe]

I bought my airbrush at Michael's craft store.Every week Michaels and AC Moore craft stores has a 40% discount coupon in the Sunday newspapers.I got a $ 120 airbrush for $72.The only other thing you'll need is a compressor or propellent.These stores sell both.Propellent is just compressed air in a can ,a cheap alternative to buying a compressor....I still make a lot of my plugs with spray paint,it just alot easier and I think they'll catch fish just as well as the plugs I airbrushed.

[Flukinuki]

In my opinion I would NOT suggest buying an airbrush and propell (compressed air). Those cans of propel are expensive, dont last long and with prolonged use (a few minutes) the can will freeze. When this happens the air pressure lowers. You need to keep them in warm water to prevent this from happening. IF you HAVE to have an airbrush (so you can SAVE MONEY, LMAO) then just save a little more money and buy a small compressor. I've got a small craftsman that works great. You can also buy "airbrush pumps" but they are roughly the same price as a compressor and they have to run the whole time your painting. The sound would drive me nuts.

[chlstn]

Where does the "so I can save money" come from?
I've spent well over 4K so far on my plug building habit!
Most all the plugs that I have built have been donated, Ho'd, or given away. So it aint me that's saving money ;)

[ 03-17-2006, 10:49 AM: Message edited by: chlstn ]

[LOST A ROD]

WELL IF YOU BOUGHT SOME OF THESE PLUGS AT $18.95 TO $25.00 YOU WIFE WOULD CUT YOU EAR TO EAR . SO BY BUYING YOUR OWN TOOLS YOU COULD SAVE MONEY . THAT SHE UNDERSTANDS.SHE FISHES ALSO! BESIDES MAYBE I COULD DO A T-SHIRT. WHEN I LEARN HOW-TO.