BASS BARN banner
1 - 20 of 65 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone I am posting my winter project which I have put alot of time and pride into this winter. I already have a brand new 140 suzuki 4 stroke ready to mount once shes done. The floor was raised 2 inches to make it self bailing deck especially with the 4 stroke weight. This boat was done right all epoxy resin used no cheap stuff (polyester not waterproof) Custom console more finish work than I thought to make it look good for the awlgrip paint. I could go on and on but pictures are worth a thousand words. Enjoy!!!! Oh and I'm 22 so I'm ahead of the game I think on my boat restorations hopefully this one will last me a lifetime!!!



Newtransom






fuel tank coffin epoxy paint




deck being constructed outside of boat with raised stringers attached.


Foam free hard to find these days I hate wet water logged foam!!! Now shes light
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
more pics

reverse flange for mounting console to deck custom no screw look.


epoxy fairing putty on console All U.S. COmposites epoxy used on whole boat




New 47 gallon aluminum fuel tank installed the right way not foamed in. The tank has plenty of air around it to allow it to breath and is secured with neoprene strips supplied by SPtanks right in South Jersey. They supply tanks to all the big boys F&S boatworks being one. Fuel tanks should be foamed in as the foam traps water causing oxidation down the line.


Me working on my console


Front hatches being recored with divinycell.


Fuel tank cover being glassed down its made of penske board (coosa board with glass on either side) Super light and strong.



Snow white awlgrip topsides and deck 4 coats
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83,984 Posts
Very nice work. Nothing like building your own ride.:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,788 Posts
Where did you get the info to tackle a project? Very impressive. Do you know someone in the business? I'd love to get involved in a project but don't have the knowledge or stones right now. I have the wood and electrical background but never worked with fiberglass.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Where did you get the info to tackle a project? Very impressive. Do you know someone in the business? I'd love to get involved in a project but don't have the knowledge or stones right now. I have the wood and electrical background but never worked with fiberglass.
Thanks I have done helped my father enough with his boat repairs and building that I decided to start doing some projects this is not my first project nor my last I am also completely redoing a whaler 13 as well. As far as not having stones you can't be scared to take a saw to a boat and start sanding. As far as glass goes its pretty simple if you get the measurements right and really easy when working with epoxy as you have plenty of time to work with it before the resin starts kicking and getting hard. As far as knowing someone in the business my dad had his own boat company building some 36 foot carolina boats when I was younger. Its a very rewarding project when your all done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
update

I got alot done in the past couple weeks. Hull is painted, console mounted, motor hung today. Armstrong hatches installed on port and starboard rear access wells. These hatches are by far the best I have ever seen very easy to install no screws and they are very tight and the most waterproof hatches you can buy. I would highly recommend these. Pop up 6" cleats in rear installed and single 8" pull up cleat installed in bow. Teak helm pod in the making my father is making this for me as he's done quite a few. ordered my rubrail today white with stainless insert.









pop up cleats and armstrong hatches


bow pull cleat.


teak helm pod in the making


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
Cupple of questions; why the epoxi (so expensive) when the rest of the originol boat is just polly.! there are so many better than gen. lam. resins out there and there is always vynelester. Fantastic job and I am not second guessing your decison to use epoxi just wondering why? Enjoy the boat!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Cupple of questions; why the epoxi (so expensive) when the rest of the originol boat is just polly.! there are so many better than gen. lam. resins out there and there is always vynelester. Fantastic job and I am not second guessing your decison to use epoxi just wondering why? Enjoy the boat!
I know all about the different resins my dad uses vinylester on his project boats. I like having more time to lay things up with epoxy and work with it as it doesn't kick that fast. The floor is wood that is glassed on either sides. The only right way to use wood in a boat is to use epoxy as it is waterproof. The wood is now waterproof and any hole that is cut is sealed with epoxy resin so there's no rot. The transom also has a wood core with a lot of glass and it is all waterproof since epoxy was used. The motor holes were drilled then coated with epoxy before motor was hung. This gave me the satisfaction of knowing the boat was safe from any water intrusion. I am going to be keeping this boat for a very long time so I wanted to do this one right and use the best materials. Same reason I chose Armstrong hatches over other ones I wanted the best product out there. I also chose the suzuki motor for the same reasons for their reliability and peace of mind. Hope this helps thanks for the questions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,800 Posts
I know all about the different resins my dad uses vinylester on his project boats. I like having more time to lay things up with epoxy and work with it as it doesn't kick that fast. The floor is wood that is glassed on either sides. The only right way to use wood in a boat is to use epoxy as it is waterproof. The wood is now waterproof and any hole that is cut is sealed with epoxy resin so there's no rot. The transom also has a wood core with a lot of glass and it is all waterproof since epoxy was used. The motor holes were drilled then coated with epoxy before motor was hung. This gave me the satisfaction of knowing the boat was safe from any water intrusion. I am going to be keeping this boat for a very long time so I wanted to do this one right and use the best materials. Same reason I chose Armstrong hatches over other ones I wanted the best product out there. I also chose the suzuki motor for the same reasons for their reliability and peace of mind. Hope this helps thanks for the questions.
Exactly...... When I was in Maine at my wifes services I got talking to a guy(a cousin of her's) I sold one of my rebuilt Grady's too. I had rebuilt it 22yrs ago and the same guy still owned it. Told me was still solid as a rock.. He had to have the fuel tank replaced about 5yrs ago and the guy who did it charged him for 6 saw blades getting thru the deck. When I rebuilt them I used Luan 1/4" plywood, 3 layers on the deck with woven roven between each layer soaked in slow setting epoxy. It just about soaks thru the Luan before it kicks off. Transoms I used 6-7 layers with WR between each.. I called them 50yr transoms.

Polyester/vinylester resins kick off too fast...no soak time when you are working with plywood. This is also why I say marine plywood is just a waste of money. You still have to epoxy soak it if you want it to live in the wet. Plain old ext plywood uses the same exact glue's that MP does. Unless it's sealed neither will live. Luan is bone dry interior grade, but it soaks epoxy like a dry sponge.

That's nice work on that Seacraft...lot better finish work than I could ever get.. My rebuilds were not pretty, but they stayed rebuilt..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Dunk, that means alot coming from you especially as a marine surveyor. I never thought about the luan layers great idea and really solid. Thanks for the finish work comment. Although it does look great in the pictures there are always those small imperfections that I know about and if i spent a 100 more hours I probably could have sanded and faired a little more to get it perfect. I must have atleast $25,000 in labor alone if I added up all the hours i have in this boat. The time spent on my hands and knees on the deck sanding and fairing the deck and making the radius on all the edges was too much. people don't realize how many hours in finish work you can spend you just have to say enough is enough and it is what it is and start painting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,998 Posts
Afew years ago we had a Classic SeaCraft get together in Atlantic City, some of us guys from classicseacraft.com docked at Flying Cloud....I tried to get it back the past 2 years but timing was off for most....maybe I will try to start something up this summer, If so maybe you can join in ,only a short run from Somers Pt...

Joe R.
20ft Classic SeaCraft
Susie II
 
1 - 20 of 65 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top