BASS BARN banner

1972 Seacraft 20 Complete Restoration!!!

33K views 64 replies 27 participants last post by  Fillet1 
#1 ·
Hi everyone I am posting my winter project which I have put alot of time and pride into this winter. I already have a brand new 140 suzuki 4 stroke ready to mount once shes done. The floor was raised 2 inches to make it self bailing deck especially with the 4 stroke weight. This boat was done right all epoxy resin used no cheap stuff (polyester not waterproof) Custom console more finish work than I thought to make it look good for the awlgrip paint. I could go on and on but pictures are worth a thousand words. Enjoy!!!! Oh and I'm 22 so I'm ahead of the game I think on my boat restorations hopefully this one will last me a lifetime!!!



Newtransom






fuel tank coffin epoxy paint




deck being constructed outside of boat with raised stringers attached.


Foam free hard to find these days I hate wet water logged foam!!! Now shes light
 
See less See more
8
Discussion starter · #2 ·
more pics

reverse flange for mounting console to deck custom no screw look.


epoxy fairing putty on console All U.S. COmposites epoxy used on whole boat




New 47 gallon aluminum fuel tank installed the right way not foamed in. The tank has plenty of air around it to allow it to breath and is secured with neoprene strips supplied by SPtanks right in South Jersey. They supply tanks to all the big boys F&S boatworks being one. Fuel tanks should be foamed in as the foam traps water causing oxidation down the line.


Me working on my console


Front hatches being recored with divinycell.


Fuel tank cover being glassed down its made of penske board (coosa board with glass on either side) Super light and strong.



Snow white awlgrip topsides and deck 4 coats
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Where did you get the info to tackle a project? Very impressive. Do you know someone in the business? I'd love to get involved in a project but don't have the knowledge or stones right now. I have the wood and electrical background but never worked with fiberglass.
Thanks I have done helped my father enough with his boat repairs and building that I decided to start doing some projects this is not my first project nor my last I am also completely redoing a whaler 13 as well. As far as not having stones you can't be scared to take a saw to a boat and start sanding. As far as glass goes its pretty simple if you get the measurements right and really easy when working with epoxy as you have plenty of time to work with it before the resin starts kicking and getting hard. As far as knowing someone in the business my dad had his own boat company building some 36 foot carolina boats when I was younger. Its a very rewarding project when your all done.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
update

I got alot done in the past couple weeks. Hull is painted, console mounted, motor hung today. Armstrong hatches installed on port and starboard rear access wells. These hatches are by far the best I have ever seen very easy to install no screws and they are very tight and the most waterproof hatches you can buy. I would highly recommend these. Pop up 6" cleats in rear installed and single 8" pull up cleat installed in bow. Teak helm pod in the making my father is making this for me as he's done quite a few. ordered my rubrail today white with stainless insert.









pop up cleats and armstrong hatches


bow pull cleat.


teak helm pod in the making


 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Cupple of questions; why the epoxi (so expensive) when the rest of the originol boat is just polly.! there are so many better than gen. lam. resins out there and there is always vynelester. Fantastic job and I am not second guessing your decison to use epoxi just wondering why? Enjoy the boat!
I know all about the different resins my dad uses vinylester on his project boats. I like having more time to lay things up with epoxy and work with it as it doesn't kick that fast. The floor is wood that is glassed on either sides. The only right way to use wood in a boat is to use epoxy as it is waterproof. The wood is now waterproof and any hole that is cut is sealed with epoxy resin so there's no rot. The transom also has a wood core with a lot of glass and it is all waterproof since epoxy was used. The motor holes were drilled then coated with epoxy before motor was hung. This gave me the satisfaction of knowing the boat was safe from any water intrusion. I am going to be keeping this boat for a very long time so I wanted to do this one right and use the best materials. Same reason I chose Armstrong hatches over other ones I wanted the best product out there. I also chose the suzuki motor for the same reasons for their reliability and peace of mind. Hope this helps thanks for the questions.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Dunk, that means alot coming from you especially as a marine surveyor. I never thought about the luan layers great idea and really solid. Thanks for the finish work comment. Although it does look great in the pictures there are always those small imperfections that I know about and if i spent a 100 more hours I probably could have sanded and faired a little more to get it perfect. I must have atleast $25,000 in labor alone if I added up all the hours i have in this boat. The time spent on my hands and knees on the deck sanding and fairing the deck and making the radius on all the edges was too much. people don't realize how many hours in finish work you can spend you just have to say enough is enough and it is what it is and start painting.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Afew years ago we had a Classic SeaCraft get together in Atlantic City, some of us guys from classicseacraft.com docked at Flying Cloud....I tried to get it back the past 2 years but timing was off for most....maybe I will try to start something up this summer, If so maybe you can join in ,only a short run from Somers Pt...

Joe R.
20ft Classic SeaCraft
Susie II
Thanks keep me posted that would be great to get a bunch of seacrafts from around the area together i'm a member over at classicseacraft as well.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Helm pod update

My dad has been working away on this helm pod for me. He went with alot of curve on the front to make it more custom but alot more work involved. Here it is needs a little more sanding on the edges then the finish work of epoxy and varnish coating. These pods really do set the boat apart from the rest which I was going for. If only I could get him to do a teak toe rail for me. Maybe next year! This helm pod was made right here in South Jersey too not on Harkers Island. I'm sure he'll build one for anybody who wants one made but I know they're not cheap.







 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Updated progress

I am slowly getting everything installed on the boat as its pretty much all custom and a pain as every hole has to be carefully cut where cleats, nav, lights, etc... go. The rubrail came out pretty good and is the best rubrail for this boat I believe. It really brought everything together. I have a leaning post on the way.

helm pod with 3 coats of epoxy on it so far.




Pop up navigation light and pull up cleat for a very clean flush finish.






Enjoy I can't wait to dip her in hopin to drop her in at the end of March.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
The beauty of the job speeks for itself. What are your plans in regards to a bootstripe/waterline, if any? Also, did you consider adding any weight below decks for stability based on the fact that you raised the decks?
I might run it this summer without a bootstripe then add one later on. I wanted to farrow the bottom then paint it white or green probably gona go with green because it won't look as bad but white would look really sharp til it gets scum on it. I did not add any weight I wanted as much weight as possible out of it. The fuel tank is farther forward it stops at the front of the console and runs towards the bow. I am hoping it sits alright in the water. Anythings better than having wet feet or a non self bailing deck!
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
update getting close to the end!

Helm pod installed it took alot of work to get the seastar helm at the perfect height so you yo don't see the helm and just the shaft sticks through. The helm pod is going to be full removably for sanding and varnishing when needed. Now I just have to wire it up figure out the suzuki wiring and throttle cable install and it'll be ready. I am going to figure out something nicer for the elctronics inlay. I will probably make a starboard box that mounts in with teak trim around it. I also have to make a door for the bottom of the console. Also probably out of starboard not sure on that just gona make it as it goes and see what looks good.



 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Thanks for all the compliments guys shes getting close I got the Lenco trim tabs installed yesterday. Waiting on the leaning post to bring the whole boat together. I am looking for a gps/ fishfinder right now to finish up my electronics. I thought a 10" Navnet would look Badass on this boat but they are a little pricey might try and find a 7'? The boat may be going to Hatteras in late May for some offshore action hoping to put some blood on the decks and be the smallest boat out there in the stream!! The boat will feel at home down there with the helm pod that looks like it should be on a 60' custom carolina!
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
Bottom Farrowed

The bottom paint was stripped using Cardinals Farrow System. The machine was great it saved alot of time sanding layers of bottom paint off. I found a few areas that will be repaired before applying epoxy barrier coat. its nice to start the season off with a nice clean bottom.

before:






The green spots on the bottom is 3M vinylester putty to fill in any minoy scrapes and gashes. Not necessary but I want to do everything right and I know what I have underneath the bottom paint.
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
update

Well The bottom is epoxy barrier coated with interlux interprotect two part epoxy barrier coat. I put a layer of petit vivid white bottom paint up to the chine. I am going to get a waterline and bring the white up some more. I got her all wired up trim tabs are working, bilge pump, led under gunnel lights... I can't get the engine to do anything. I am trying to not take the motor to a dealer so if anyone can help in wiring my suzuki df140 motor I will pay CASH!!! You can come on the first voyage if you want as well! Or go fishing on her this summer on this one of a kind potter seacraft! All the wires are run they just have little quick connects that are plug and play but I can't seem to get them right. If I do have to go to a dealer which suzuki dealer would you recommend closest to ocean city area?

Me painting


epoxy barrier coat






 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top