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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I moved back today's survey because they said rain. So I had some time to start playing with that 20ft Key Hopper. 4 batteries, a 24 volt system with air switches(black compressor box) to run 3 trolling motors. I count 4 bait pumps, but I can hear one running I can't find in the boat??? Three batts won't even start the digital battery charger I have so they are junk. It's the battery under console I'm trying to figure out. It's wired back to one of the three batt switches in the rear compartment. I didn't have time to trace the 6 ga cables, but it looks like it was other side of the 24 volt system.

This is the boat... 20ft Key Hopper. Long distance flats boat. Has a good deep V bottom, 60 gal tank, 95' 150 ProV Yam with probably less than 100hrs on the engine. Boats a 94', Kevlar hull, 800lbs. At least thats what guy from Tenn told me on the phone. He also made me a surprising decent offer for the hull alone..but I told him maybe in the fall. I have to play with this thing for at least this summer..



This is the console that 31 series batt was buried under. I had unbolt the console and lift it to get the batt out. But that makes it lots easier to gut some of the wiring out from under it. The switch panel is shot and I'm going to replace it with a BlueSeas Weatherdeck circuit breaker panel.



I had charged the only good batt in it when I brought it home a couple weeks ago and it was holding about a 60% charge. Evidently not enough the lite the engine. No spark on my tester. So I called Jaws. Said he could not believe it might need a pac. He winterized it. Said he was going to stop over. I put the 12 amp charger on the batt and in 15 minutes I had spark and she started. Smoked out the neighborhood and called Jaws and said not to bother coming. Warmed her up pulled the fuel line off on the engine side of the primer ball and stuck that in a can of Seafoam and let her idle till she stalled. About a 1/2 can of Seafoam. Then I started getting all the batteries out of the boat. 3 batts in the back compartment had 25-30 wires running to them. As I disconnected I ran a tie wrap thru each cable/wire end to bundle them. God only knows what they are all for...which pump, there's power plugs all over the boat.. Anyway the next project is the figure out and test all this wiring. After that the plumbing feeding at least 3 live wells and timers for them.

I see simpler 35-40ft+ boats all the time.

She didn't want to restart nearly as easy as OMC/Bombs or Mercs with gut full of Seafoam, but from what I saw for smoke she wasn't too loaded with carbon, but some.

If there's any interest in how this thing turns out I'll keep posting..?
 

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Good Luck

I wish you well on this project, and I encourage you to keep posting your progress for the rest of us to read. Your story reminds me of a 31' Jersey I owned for a while. When it was first purchased, only 1 of three bilge pumps worked and none of the other 12V systems functioned (running lights, horn, blower, fume detector, etc.). The wiring harness connections at the inboard engines needed some work too. Took me a month of long weekends to get it all working, but by the time I was done, I had removed about 500' of LAMP CORD. Seems the previous owner ran a new set of lamp cord wires to any thing that stopped working due to corroded connections or whatever.
 

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You might want to just start over and keep it simple
2 batteries and switch
Engine harness
Nav lights
Auto Bilge pump
Washdown pump
Fuse panel for electronics on the console
cigarette lighter plug for anything else
The end
 

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I want to see some progress Dunk and go for a ride in the summer... love speed!
 

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I love it Bob.

You are the master/expert on how to look over a boat and I am doubling over in laughter, as I read about your wiring and engine surprises.

Once you get that rig running I will be very interested in how she handles.

Peter
 

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yes it sure does look like a fast boat boat, bob maybe paint her hugger orange with white SS stripes
 

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Keep posting the progress. I have learned a lot from your posting over the last couple of years. My boat seemed to have a similar electrician that wired it. I spent 2 weekends with a voltmeter trying to figure out what wire/power was going where, but at least my batteries worked
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
High Wire said:
You might want to just start over and keep it simple
2 batteries and switch
Engine harness
Nav lights
Auto Bilge pump
Washdown pump
Fuse panel for electronics on the console
cigarette lighter plug for anything else
The end
Thats exactly where I'm going.. I just want to tie off and seal off the 24 volt system in case the next guy wants it. Today I found 4 more switches in the battery compartment to turn on pumps. Their just spliced into the running wiring and hang there. But they do work, so that makes it easy to indentify which wire is going where. And I can eliminate and move the switch control to the new switch panel on the dash. I haven't decided what to do with the bait well timers or if they even work..
 

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Yes Bob - Please keep posting about your progress! Theres lots to be learned through these processes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well After getting my back spiked today with cortizone for a Facet Block on my lower three problems I headed over to Chucks(Roseman) in Stone Harbor. Picked up a bronze 10 gang ground buss and 20 ft of 14ga wire in case I have to clip back to another butt connector to extend the so far 13 ground wires that were directly connected to the batteries to the buss bar I bought. Once I get everything in the boat grounded to a battery then I can start testing red(hot wires) and see what they turn on. Label them, inspect them for more butt splices to eliminate then run them forward to the console.

Here's the switch panel that has to go.



I'm going with a 6 gang BlueSeas WeatherDeck switch.. This one http://bluesea.com/category/7/27/products/4316 that has the fuse panel right in it.

That whole stretch of switches is shot on the console. I hate starboard....I'm thinking I have a beautiful piece of Bubinga hardwood I could make a panel out of?? I emailed Tom McGow at Bennett about a new rocker trim switch to match the color of the Blueseas switch. White/White I hope.. Did I say I hate starboard... It's the wood, which will be the only wood on the boat or just use a chunk of fiberglass white gelcoated skin I have laying around..borring.. I built my entire backrest on the Mako out of Bubinga and it holds polyurethane varnish really well.

Splicing wire together.... I gave up on butt connectors 15 years ago. When I put two wires together I strip back about an 1 1/4" of plastic covering. Slide about 1 1/2" of heat shrink down one side. I take the raw wire and twist it together and wrap it back over itself. Pack it all tight together, cover it with the 24hr red tube 5200 then pull the heat shrink down over it. Heat from the center till the 5200 squezzes out each end. Wipe off with an acetone paper towel. In two days that is a wire connection you can leave lay in bilge water for 10yrs and it won't phase it.. Screw buying 3 self sealing butt connectors for 5 bucks. My connection is simplier, cheaper and better, lots better.
 

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I like your wiring suggestions, I'm going to be stealing that one.:D
 

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Have fun Dunk.;)

That switch looks good. Are the fuses in the back where you would have to reach around? Is the switch designed just for vertical mount, or can you turn the labels and go horizontal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
toolguy73 said:
Have fun Dunk.;)

That switch looks good. Are the fuses in the back where you would have to reach around? Is the switch designed just for vertical mount, or can you turn the labels and go horizontal?

No reach around at all. Just pop the front face plate and all the fuses are right there..

Here's my 4 gang without the white face plate off and rubber seal in place..



The rubber seal off to the side..

 

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That is one sexy switch, there.

Thanks.

Can it go horizontal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah, just install the switch stickers 90 degrees and mount it whatever way you want.

There is also circuit breaker version over the fused models.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Today I picked up beautiful peice of Bubinga hardwood. 37.5" x 5.5" x 1/2" thick to cover holes under switch panel, trim switch and key switch. Ordered that 6 gang Blue Seas Weatherdeck switch also. The console is only 18" wide so I may use the other half of the wood across the top to cover those hole and mount the electronics on. It will be the only wood on the boat, but it's not that much of it. Like I said before clear polyurethane satin finish bites onto it nicely. 6-8 coats and it's pretty much trouble free for three years and it looks great.

I'll probably get rid of that beat looking Yam key switch panel and mount everything right thru the wood.
 

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Hey dunk, please try to post the consol when your done. I doing some mahogany for a push pole holder on my flats skiff.
I'd like to see how your panel comes out.
 
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