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I would like to add a second battery. WOuld a 94 Johson 115 handle charging 2 battery's. and Is there a way to wire it up so it gets charged when motor is running, but wont be used until needed, or am I dreaming again
 

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You will want to use an automatic charging relay to parallel the batteries when the motor is running to charge both batteries and isolate each battery when drifting or on the anchor. Battery A will connect to your OB motor to start and run the engine. Battery B will connect to you DC panel to run your house loads( electronics, washdown pump , radio). The ACR gets installed between the two batteries and will only parallel the batteries when the engine outputs current .
 

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Just get a Perko 1-2-all switch. Go out on "1" and home on "2". Whatever battery is selected will charge, and the other would be isolated from any draw. Having it in the "all" position will charge both batteries at the same time, but your poor little alternator won't like it. When you get back to the dock just turn it to "off", but make sure your bilge pump is hard wired to one battery or the other.
 

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Just get a Perko 1-2-all switch. Go out on "1" and home on "2". Whatever battery is selected will charge, and the other would be isolated from any draw. Having it in the "all" position will charge both batteries at the same time, but your poor little alternator won't like it. When you get back to the dock just turn it to "off", but make sure your bilge pump is hard wired to one battery or the other.
This is the system i have except i have the bilge wired to the comm on the switch with a then wired to a bilged switch on the dash that selects between manual or auto. When leaving the boat i turn the perko to off and the switch on the dash to auto so only the bilge will have power. the only isssue with hard wiring the bilge straight to one battery is what if the battery goes bad or the bilge drains that battery, now if you dont use the boat for awhile you run the risk of something happening to the boat. with the auto bilge switch hooked to the comm the bilge can draw from either battery. so if something happend to one battery the bilge can still run on the other battery.
 

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This is the system i have except i have the bilge wired to the comm on the switch with a then wired to a bilged switch on the dash that selects between manual or auto. When leaving the boat i turn the perko to off and the switch on the dash to auto so only the bilge will have power. the only isssue with hard wiring the bilge straight to one battery is what if the battery goes bad or the bilge drains that battery, now if you dont use the boat for awhile you run the risk of something happening to the boat. with the auto bilge switch hooked to the comm the bilge can draw from either battery. so if something happend to one battery the bilge can still run on the other battery.
I think you better double check your setup. On every Perko I've ever dealt with the Com. terminal is completely dead when the switch is in the "off" position.
 

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I added a second battery this year to my 2005 90hp Etec and so far its working fine. Set it up similar to a above with a selector switch (off, 1, 2, or both). I have the bilge hard wired with an inline fuse to one battery so that when everything is off, key is out, and main power switch is off, the bilge will run. I don't want it using both batteries and potentially draining them both. If it drains one in a heavy rain, at least when I get down to the boat I have a full battery to get started. I also didnt want the bilge linked to any switches in case someone else is messing with the boat (family member, guy at the marina, etc) and turned all switches off when done (which is instinct) I at least know the bilge will run solid on one battery.

Interestingly, the first and only time i took it out so far this year, I ran it on the BOTH setting. Someone aboved mentioned running it out on 1 and back on 2 which I havent heard off before. I see the logic but I guess you need to make sure you are giving equal time running on each so they both get charged as opposed to BOTH when they are always being charged together.

I think you better double check your setup. On every Perko I've ever dealt with the Com. terminal is completely dead when the switch is in the "off" position.
 

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I have been told many times that the alternator will not hold up long trying to charge both batteries at the same time. Was told to only use the all setting if neither battery would crank up the motor. Otherwise- run one or the other. Been following that rule and never had an issue.
 

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I added a second battery this year to my 2005 90hp Etec and so far its working fine. Set it up similar to a above with a selector switch (off, 1, 2, or both). I have the bilge hard wired with an inline fuse to one battery so that when everything is off, key is out, and main power switch is off, the bilge will run. I don't want it using both batteries and potentially draining them both. If it drains one in a heavy rain, at least when I get down to the boat I have a full battery to get started. I also didnt want the bilge linked to any switches in case someone else is messing with the boat (family member, guy at the marina, etc) and turned all switches off when done (which is instinct) I at least know the bilge will run solid on one battery.

Interestingly, the first and only time i took it out so far this year, I ran it on the BOTH setting. Someone aboved mentioned running it out on 1 and back on 2 which I havent heard off before. I see the logic but I guess you need to make sure you are giving equal time running on each so they both get charged as opposed to BOTH when they are always being charged together.
Personally I have never put a fuse on a bildge pump ever in my life. Fuse pops-boat sinks.
The risk of a 12 volt submersible bilge pump shorting with low enough resistance to start a fire is much lower than the risk of a "properly sized" fuse blowing, causing the boat to sink.
 

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Install a battery switch an alternate usage between the 1 and 2 position. Don't run for extended periods on ALL.

Hard wiring a bilge pump through a float switch so that there is always voltage and add in a manual switch that carries amperage when the battery switch is on.

I would recommend an inline fuse. A fuse protects the wire in the circuit. In an unfused circuit, a fire can start in the wiring or whatever appliance you're running. It doesn't necessarily have to be a short circuit to cause a fire...it can also be resistance that is built up in the appliance, wiring, or any associated connectors due to corrosion, improperly sized wiring, or other things. Resistance causes heat, and when things get too hot - fires start.

Good luck!
 
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