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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going through our videos and photos from some of our test rods that have been used to help us develop our rods using the new Bushido Rod Blanks. Below is a video from a Barn member that I posted to show various stages of the fight and the action of the rod.

At about 1:24 - 1:35 and again at 3:29 - 3:45, you can hear his honest opinion of the rod. Yes, he was testing it for us, but he gets nothing out of it either way, good or bad. I did not keep the brand of the rod it was compared to in the video. (That's not what the video is about.) Its just to show you the blank, on some good sized fish. The rod in this video is the 350g model. Built with a basic guide spacing, nothing special or unique. ( in fact, some input from this fisherman on larger guide rings for bigger knots has been given to us, because it was a basic build). We do many different spacing/size variations, depending on the intended use of our rods. This is just some video of some bigger fish on the Bushido Popping blank. :thumbsup:

I have a 125g I am building for myself that will become my "Utility Rod" for everything from big wood in the surf to popping in blue water. I feel I have found the correct guide spacing to make it good for a wide variety of uses. The 125g model is very unique in what it can be used for! Its much stronger than many 250g blanks out there. ;)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5LLouTfMaw
 

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tom the bushido125g is the blank i bought from you and i am at the point of guides. can you give me the rough spacing for it? tony said he would have it for me but i just have been too busy to call the shop. you can text me the dimensions or call me you have my number. thanks Larry. i cant wait to use it. also i need the canyon spinning reel to go with it. i might be down real soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
tom the bushido125g is the blank i bought from you and i am at the point of guides. can you give me the rough spacing for it? tony said he would have it for me but i just have been too busy to call the shop. you can text me the dimensions or call me you have my number. thanks Larry. i cant wait to use it. also i need the canyon spinning reel to go with it. i might be down real soon.
Larry,
What type of spacing are you looking for? So far, I have 2 lay outs on the 125g. One is for tuna, other is for "everything". The everything rod is also fine for tuna, especially the fish we see here in Jersey. It just gives me a little more in the way of options. I can use it for snagging & dropping, surf, plugs from 3/4oz to as heavy as 5 or 6ozs. The quality is there, so the blanks are performing above and beyond what we are used to seeing.

Let me know what your using it for and I can send over what I use. Are you using HC or wind-on's??
 

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Tom, great job on the video!! glad i could help out with the testing.. I will be building one myself in the NEAR future forsure!!

Heres a couple still shots of the rod in action also!! Thanks!!



 

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Did you make that a shorter but section? I'm trying to get away from traditional long butt sections on the poppers. They typically come in on oem rods 14"s or more which is too long for me to get any leverage.

I'm going to try smaller 12" butt sections.

What do you think Tom?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Tom, great job on the video!! glad i could help out with the testing.. I will be building one myself in the NEAR future forsure!!

Heres a couple still shots of the rod in action also!! Thanks!!

Thank you, for taking it down there and beating it up! I never thought to ask if you were using a wind-on or not, we could have used larger guides for the knots. It still seemed to throw pretty well with the knots, from what I saw in the videos. I got what I wanted from testing......see some bigger fish than we get up here on it. :thumbsup:

These blanks are the real deal... Its just always nice to have somebody else use them.
Thank you for all of the video. I cut it down to under 5mins for download/upload time, but I was able to see what I wanted to see from all of the footage you brought back. Thanks again! Sorry I missed you the other night. I got caught up at the real job!! :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Did you make that a shorter but section? I'm trying to get away from traditional long butt sections on the poppers. They typically come in on oem rods 14"s or more which is too long for me to get any leverage.

I'm going to try smaller 12" butt sections.

What do you think Tom?
Joe,

We have gone down to 12" on them. In fact, my 125g rod I am making as the "utility rod" with new spacing is 12". The Bushido butt sections are 31" if I am not mistaken...???.... so, I have played around with mine. I will post some pics up. Another thing on the Bushido that we have had some good luck with is the aluminum seats. No flat spots yet....that's why I asked "Chum Stains" to find some bigger fish on the blank using the aluminum seat. I have been waiting for it to happen but still good. I know the aluminum seats have put many blanks into retirement.
 

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tom mostly tuna popping i have other stuff for the close fishing. i may use it in the spring for the bigger bass, im working on some very large bunker style poppers for the spring. similar to the ones i showed you at the shop. i want to get away from the snagging venue, that is getting too easy and i use conventional stuff for that. one other question, since this is the first 2 piece rod ive done, do i need to wrap the butt section all the way to the end where the forward piece slides in? or is it strong enough on its own? i have 65lb power pro for the reel and will use a windon leader with that. i will be down in the next few weeks for the canyon spinner for it. butt section is done and it has the aluminum reel seat also. thanks tom you can call me if thats easier. you have my number. also got some more birthday money so i am looking at some other blanks to build.
 

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Dozer,

Tom can answer most all of your questions, but I will answer one. After putting the two sections together, as tight as you can, mark about 1/2 of an inch above the joint and start your tying there. Eventually, the blank will wear a little and start going into the butt section furthur. If you tied too close, the epoxy won't allow the top section of the blank to go into the butt section.

K
 

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Dozer,

Tom can answer most all of your questions, but I will answer one. After putting the two sections together, as tight as you can, mark about 1/2 of an inch above the joint and start your tying there. Eventually, the blank will wear a little and start going into the butt section furthur. If you tied too close, the epoxy won't allow the top section of the blank to go into the butt section.

K
Kev,
Sounds like you may have built 1 or 2 of these.;)
 

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KHP thanks for the response, maybe i wasnt explaining it correctly, on some of my other 2 piece blanks where the fwd and aft sections slide together they are wrapped all the way to the fwd end of the aft or butt section, i assume this adds some strength to the butt section at the joint, to keep it from splitting or cracking since it is hollow there. sorry i am having trouble wording this so it makes sense. ok aft section of rod is hollow so fwd section slides into it. where they come together on the aft or butt section, do i need to wrap that to add strength to it so the fwd section doesnt put any undue stress on it and split it? i have a decorative wrap on the butt section but it leaves about 2" of the aft section unwrapped at the joint. i can wrap something there just wanted to know if i need to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
KHP thanks for the response, maybe i wasnt explaining it correctly, on some of my other 2 piece blanks where the fwd and aft sections slide together they are wrapped all the way to the fwd end of the aft or butt section, i assume this adds some strength to the butt section at the joint, to keep it from splitting or cracking since it is hollow there. sorry i am having trouble wording this so it makes sense. ok aft section of rod is hollow so fwd section slides into it. where they come together on the aft or butt section, do i need to wrap that to add strength to it so the fwd section doesnt put any undue stress on it and split it? i have a decorative wrap on the butt section but it leaves about 2" of the aft section unwrapped at the joint. i can wrap something there just wanted to know if i need to.

It is not required, but usually a good idea to do so. If you do not want to wrap it, a coat of epoxy will still help prevent any damage. Ferrule Wax is another good idea. The wax helps lengthen the life of the connection. Cheap, inexpensive product that has added many years to many rods.

Keep in mind, whenever you wrap & coat a rod blank, you are causing a flat spot. ( you are taking away from the natural action of the blank.) This is why there are so many arguments on the "less guides are better" side of this topic. The butt section on these new popping rods will have some bend to it. Probably not enough to cause any harm if you were to wrap it, but keep in mind it does have some flex to it under the top end of the rating for that blank being used. In English, IMHO, a 2" wrap is safer than a 10" wrap .

Many guys are building with aluminum reel seats on blanks that have too much flex in them. They are breaking because of the "flat spot" the aluminum seat is causing. The same applies to guide wraps. Yes, the long fancy wraps are always nice to look at, but on some blanks they do more harm than good. When that blank is pushed to it's limits, it will usually break at a guide or edge of a fancy wrap. This happens because the action of the rod blank has been altered from it's original guidelines by the wrap. There are ways to get around all of this and it all comes with experience and testing. We are using aluminum seats on some of the Bushido Blanks, but it does not mean we can on all of them. I'm not trying to scare you away from wrapping the ferrule section, I am just giving you some insight on what can happen if you get carried away. ;)

Its a topic that has right answers on both sides of it. At my shop, Tony likes less guides, while I like more. I admit, I have wrapped some rods wrong over the years, causing them to break. When I decided on using more guides, I had to put much more time into my rods and the design of them. More guides will give you more power out of the blank. Less guides will give you less flat spots and less of a chance to break. Its a double edged sword. Trial & error is the only way to find the right combination. It takes years/many rods to master it. That's why you will not see me promoting 100 different blanks & brands. Sure I can wrap them and get lucky on experience, but we offer a lifetime warranty on our work, so the last thing I want to do is re-wrap another warranty rod on my limited time. I have found a smaller amount of blanks that work great and I have worked on modifications. We also have some stuff in the works, based on 14 months of testing. This rod in this topic is a test wrap as far as guide spacing is concerned. Its a compromise between less & more. There's alot more to it and most fishermen will never notice the difference in wraps or performance. But, as a builder, you will learn that a half an inch does matter! lol.
 

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thanks tom, that is what i needed to know. now about the spacing for the guides, should i just call the shop? what nights is tony there? guess im getting cabin fever. i want to finish this one because my buddie brought over the blank he just got from you so i want to get started on that one.

thanks for the reply paul
 
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