[Scarface]

150 Johnson, shoot down the bay with no issues, fish for a couple of hours, head back to the dock, get up to around 4200 rpm and check engine alarm comes on. Slow down and go into neutral, alarm goes off. Does this 3 times, engine is pissing ok, had impellers and water pump replaced prior to putting the boat in this year. Going to change the fuel lines this weekend, anything else i can do to help fix this issue? I'm not mechanically inclined

 

[U / W HUNTER]

Do you mix the oil or do you have an oil pump
Your problem happened to me a few years back
instead of getting the pump repaired or replaced
I started mixing the oil in the tank & that was it , no more alarms

 

[Scarface]

Do you mix the oil or do you have an oil pump
Your problem happened to me a few years back
instead of getting the pump repaired or replaced
I started mixing the oil in the tank & that was it , no more alarms

I have a separate tank for oil

 

[WannaLaugh]

Do you have a gauge that indicates the cause of the alarm?
If you are looking at oil delivery, check the filter in the oil tank.

 

[Weaver1]

Usually when the alarm goes off the lights blink or the alarm beeps in a pattern like mores code. If you look up your motor online you should be able to find what the codes are for your motor.

 

[Scarface]

Do you have a gauge that indicates the cause of the alarm?
If you are looking at oil delivery, check the filter in the oil tank.

Just a gauge that alarms on low oiI, check engine and I can't remember the 3rd. It seems to be getting oil, I filled the oil before I left and when I got back it shows there was oil used.

 

[Weaver1]

steady constant beep = Engine Overheating - The V/6 engines, some others, have a "Fuel Restriction Warning" which is also a steady constant beep.


2 - A beep every 20 or 40 seconds = oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank. (Late model engine = Every 40 seconds)


3 - A beep every other second = VRO failure, air leak in oil line, oil restriction, (anything that would result in a lack of oil being supplied to the engine).

 

[Scarface]

steady constant beep = Engine Overheating - The V/6 engines, some others, have a "Fuel Restriction Warning" which is also a steady constant beep.


2 - A beep every 20 or 40 seconds = oil level has dropped to 1/4 tank. (Late model engine = Every 40 seconds)


3 - A beep every other second = VRO failure, air leak in oil line, oil restriction, (anything that would result in a lack of oil being supplied to the engine).

#1 - I do have the V6 Ocean runner, steady constant beep is what I'm getting, again only when I get to around 4200 rpms. If it was over heating would it over heat prior to hitting 4200?

 

[Scarface]

#1 - I do have the V6 Ocean runner, steady constant beep is what I'm getting, again only when I get to around 4200 rpms. If it was over heating would it over heat prior to hitting 4200?

I also have a hot alarm, which never came on, just got back from replacing all fuel lines and primer ball, checked the filter at the motor, clean, checked the water separator, no water in it. Willl take it for a test run tomorrow morning.

 

[Scarface]

I also have a hot alarm, which never came on, just got back from replacing all fuel lines and primer ball, checked the filter at the motor, clean, checked the water separator, no water in it. Willl take it for a test run tomorrow morning.

My test run didn't work out well as soon as I got up to around 4200rpms check engine alarm again.

 

[Dunk]

#1 - I do have the V6 Ocean runner, steady constant beep is what I'm getting, again only when I get to around 4200 rpms. If it was over heating would it over heat prior to hitting 4200?

Could be the thermostats. At about 2000rpms the water pump builds enough pressure to push the tstat out of the block to let water free flow at higher rpms. They act as poppet valves. If they are clogged with salt they won't do that.

Tilt the engine up, take the cover off. On the top of each head you'll see two big black plastic caps. The caps will have nut heads that you can use a big adjustable wrench on to remove. You'll understand how they work once you see them. Make sure they are not all caked up with salt. under the cap, You'll see a big wire coiled spring that holds the tstat in the powerhead. Make sure the rubber gromet around the tstat is not swollen and holding the tstat to tight. The tstat should slide easily in and out of the powerhead.

If one or both are not opening when they should it will cause the engine only to overheat at higher rpms. The spring, gromet and tstat can all be replaced easily.

 

[Dunk]

Johnson Outboard 150HP OEM Parts Diagram for CYLINDER & CRANKCASE | Boats.net,

Number 52 is the tstat.

 

[Scarface]

Could be the thermostats. At about 2000rpms the water pump builds enough pressure to push the tstat out of the block to let water free flow at higher rpms. They act as poppet valves. If they are clogged with salt they won't do that.

Tilt the engine up, take the cover off. On the top of each head you'll see two big black plastic caps. The caps will have nut heads that you can use a big adjustable wrench on to remove. You'll understand how they work once you see them. Make sure they are not all caked up with salt. under the cap, You'll see a big wire coiled spring that holds the tstat in the powerhead. Make sure the rubber gromet around the tstat is not swollen and holding the tstat to tight. The tstat should slide easily in and out of the powerhead.

If one or both are not opening when they should it will cause the engine only to overheat at higher rpms. The spring, gromet and tstat can all be replaced easily.

Thanks Dunk, I will look into it this weekend, glad to see you're still around

 

[Scarface]

Thanks Dunk, I will look into it this weekend, glad to see you're still around

I replaced both thermostats today, still have the same problem