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Fellow Barners, I am installing a new filet table at my parents house in March. It is Stainless steel, has three small sinks, is 8' long and roughly 24' wide. Can anyone point me in the right direction of someone who can custom cut something I can put on top of the stainless steel for a cutting board? I would like to cover all of the stainless with something that will last a long, long time.

Usually when I go to the winter shows there is someone that I can talk to about cutting boards but I have not seen anyone yet this year.

Thanks.!!
 

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either a piece of azacks or Koma , universial supply will have it in 4 x 8 sheets. it is easy to work with , it is durable , it will not rot , crack or split, I use it for cutting boards all of the time, It is cheaper than starboard. 4x 8 sheet , is around 100 dollars
 

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Starboard????? Too clean fish on?? Yeah if you like chasing them all over the table.. Pretty much goes with any plastic.. Wood is your best bet. EXT plywood and change it every other year.. Cheap and it works great.. 2 x 12 pine planks...
 

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Starboard????? Too clean fish on?? Yeah if you like chasing them all over the table.. Pretty much goes with any plastic.. Wood is your best bet. EXT plywood and change it every other year.. Cheap and it works great.. 2 x 12 pine planks...
Actually King Starboard manufactures quite a few products other than the plastics you may use for cabinetry and such. They also make materials that are suitable for fish cleaning tables. Most food prep establishments use HDPE in fact I am pretty sure they are required to by code to use color coded HDPE in prepping meats,poultry and fish to stop cross contamination. Starboard also manufactures a HDPE that has a anti microbial agent that does not support bacteria build-up. My point is that regular HDPE without a UV inhibitor will breakdown and start cracking after some time in the sun. I am not sure I would recommend a wood that uses formaldehyde glue :eek: :eek: to adhere the laminations? I'd rather go the slidey fishy route. Can always buy a stainless clamp if you insist on keeping the fish on top of the table:rolleyes:.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all of the replies. I am still thinking about this. Wood was my original thought but I thought if I spent more initially I would have something that lasted longer.

I certainly could bolt on some stainless clamps.
 

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The color coding of cutting boards is a cute idea fostered by TV shows and plastics companies to sell sets of color coded cutting boards. If you handle your food items well and wash and sanitize your equipment properly it shouldn't matter what color the boards are...but since when did logic and rational thought apply to a government agency.

It seems every 3-5 years food handling regulations go through subtle, meaningless changes because the people in charge of issuing these mandates need to justify their existence (paycheck). Not too long ago hot food holding temperatures went from a low of 145 to 140. What difference does 5 degrees make, especially if you're going to lower the floor of allowable temperature?? Hell, New Jersey outlawed over easy,sunny side up, soft boiled and poached eggs for a while. Its currently illegal to make salad dressings, ice cream, and hollandaise derived sauces with whole eggs. Restaurants must resort to purchasing cartons of pasteurized yolks and deal with serving an imperfect product. I know, I'm hauling this thing WAY off track, my apologies :D

At one point wooden cutting boards were actually thought to be preferable because after years of use you can sand them down to a fresh, smooth surface, and the tannic compounds in a maple board actually act as a mild anti bacterial agent. I'd love nothing more than to be able to work on a righteous, heavy maple board at the restaurant like I do at home.

HDPE boards, once hacked and gouged with deep knife cuts theres no way to refinish them. Sanding turns them into a disgusting suede-finished mess. One of my cooks tried doing ours with a belt sander a few years back and I about wanted to choke him (ended up tossing about $300 worth of useable boards) We're currently stuck with buying new boards every other season or so. I would love nothing more than to work on a nice thick slab of maple, if not a foot thick butcher's block. Wood-vs-poly is one of those irrational, fear fueled decisions made in an office by experts with the faintest familiarity of the industry.

If I was constructing a fillet table I'd go somewhere along Dunk's idea and have a cutting surface of cheap, easily replaced, and still-grippy-when-wet wood. Think about it, its for cleaning and portioning fish...you're not dicing hundreds of pounds of vegetables on it where you'll tear up the surface too terribly. Plywood shouldn't be an issue unless you plan on cooking the fish on it. If the slab you laid down begins getting mangled from blade gouges, put a new one down :thumbsup:
 

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The color coding of cutting boards is a cute idea fostered by TV shows and plastics companies to sell sets of color coded cutting boards. If you handle your food items well and wash and sanitize your equipment properly it shouldn't matter what color the boards are...but since when did logic and rational thought apply to a government agency.

It seems every 3-5 years food handling regulations go through subtle, meaningless changes because the people in charge of issuing these mandates need to justify their existence (paycheck). Not too long ago hot food holding temperatures went from a low of 145 to 140. What difference does 5 degrees make, especially if you're going to lower the floor of allowable temperature?? Hell, New Jersey outlawed over easy,sunny side up, soft boiled and poached eggs for a while. Its currently illegal to make salad dressings, ice cream, and hollandaise derived sauces with whole eggs. Restaurants must resort to purchasing cartons of pasteurized yolks and deal with serving an imperfect product. I know, I'm hauling this thing WAY off track, my apologies :D

At one point wooden cutting boards were actually thought to be preferable because after years of use you can sand them down to a fresh, smooth surface, and the tannic compounds in a maple board actually act as a mild anti bacterial agent. I'd love nothing more than to be able to work on a righteous, heavy maple board at the restaurant like I do at home.

HDPE boards, once hacked and gouged with deep knife cuts theres no way to refinish them. Sanding turns them into a disgusting suede-finished mess. One of my cooks tried doing ours with a belt sander a few years back and I about wanted to choke him (ended up tossing about $300 worth of useable boards) We're currently stuck with buying new boards every other season or so. I would love nothing more than to work on a nice thick slab of maple, if not a foot thick butcher's block. Wood-vs-poly is one of those irrational, fear fueled decisions made in an office by experts with the faintest familiarity of the industry.

If I was constructing a fillet table I'd go somewhere along Dunk's idea and have a cutting surface of cheap, easily replaced, and still-grippy-when-wet wood. Think about it, its for cleaning and portioning fish...you're not dicing hundreds of pounds of vegetables on it where you'll tear up the surface too terribly. Plywood shouldn't be an issue unless you plan on cooking the fish on it. If the slab you laid down begins getting mangled from blade gouges, put a new one down :thumbsup:
Then have rack built under the table for a 2 gal jug of Clorox....and use it after each cleaning..

Bring to mind a buddy of mine had left over counter marble after he built a house. Man, what mistake.... It was dangerous trying to hold fish in one place and cutting with the other hand. Forget cutting into it...take the edge off a knife as soon as you touched it. He uses a piece plywood over it to clean fish, but she sure do look pertty when no one is using it..

Starboard looks like crap after it's been cut and chopped into.. Personally I think Starboard should be banned on this planet..
 

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I have a stainless table outside. On top I have a piece of HPDE about 3'x2'.I use the table almost daily from April till the end of Nov. cleaning fish, crabs, clams, mussels, etc. After each use I scrub the HPDE down good with clorox and a stiff brush and rinse thoroughly. Also, I turn the board over frequently and give the whole unit a good cleaning about once a week. I have been using this rig for about six years and never had a problem. I think the key to safe food prep is to take the time to do a thorough clean up.
 

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Not good for the enviroment and I know a lot of people use it including myself at one time, white vinegar kills most molds and germs due to the acidity. Orange is also a good cleaner, JMHO
Tom
I guess we will have to start to use vinegar and orange in our swimming pools. Quick, someone let the medical people and the food handelers know about this block buster.
Only spoofing. Vinegar is a good cleaner. I don't know what is in orange cleaner. However, I still think a mild solution of clorox is one of the better germ killers.
 

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Lumber liquidaters has 8 ft and 12 foot maple cutting boards. If you keep them oiled they will last a long time. If your table is outside then throw a cover over it. Here is a link.
http://www.lumberliquidators.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=1471

One thing I would recommend though is to drill and install long threaded rods in the ends to keep them from cracking. It will be getting rinsed down a lot.
 
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