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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
MDO Plywood

I need to replace the fuel tank cover on My wellcraft V-20. The current cover can not be re-cored or repaired. I have no fiberglass experience, so I'm thinking of using a piece of MDO Plywood coated with Polyesther Resin. I will be painting the deck after the repair. I heard that MDO Ply won't check, is this true? The panel will be 60" x 30" and supported from the under side. Does anyone know where I can buy a sheet of MDO ply in 3/4.
 

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Save yourself some hassel and buy some 3/4 inch cellular pvc sheet. It comes in white, and is uv stable, easy to work with , won't rot, and doesn't need painting. Just fit the right size piece, caulk and screw it into place, and go fishing. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The PVC sheet would work, but I think it would be too slippery when wet. I looked at Starboard and Seaboard and I just can't see paying $350 for a sheet of that stuff. I still need to paint my deck so I figure maybe I can get away cheaper with the MDO, just can't find it anywhere.
 

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thought on price

I needed to replace my cabin bulkhead and I could have gone either the starboard route or the plywood and glass route like in your situation.I found a sheet of 3/4" starboard for $235 and felt like that was alot even though it was $100 cheaper than anyoneesle.So I looked into pricing it to do in plywood and glass and then paint it.

It breaks down like this:$100 4'x8'x3/4" marine plywood,$140 roll of 6oz. fiberglass mat,$75 WEST 105 epoxy,$35 WEST 206 Hardner,$50 Awlgrip primer,$70 Awlgrip paint.All said and done it comes to $470 just for the material needed to do the job right.This was all given to me from a very respected fiberglass guy;) ;)

I will be tring my hand and the same repare you are doing but not until next year because my funds cant allow it this year.

Goodluck on the project and post up some pics when you do it.
 

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Option 1: Cut the plywood to fit. Then lay up with 1 layer of 6 oz cloth on the underside. Maybe two layers on the the endgrain. And your choice of a few layers of 6oz cloth on top or 2-3 layers of 1.5 oz mat on top. The mat will give you a thick build up. Polyester resin will work fine. You will have to paint over it.

Option 2: Better yet would be to make a mold using Melamine board and radius the corners with modeling clay. Wax it well and use a PVA release agent. Lay up the fiberglass and put in the plywood core. Cut the core about an inch or so back from the edges so the screws don't penetrate the wood. Taper the edges of the plywood to 45 degrees so the glass will lay up without air pockets. Then put 2 layers of 1.5 oz mat to finish.

When you pop it from the melamine mold, it will be very smooth with far less sanding and finish work required. Number two will be much stonger and if done right will outlast you.
 

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Before you do this in plywood, what makes you think the old one can't be repaired or recored? There is nothing like a factory molded piece for a good fit. Any of the Starboard type materials while really nice for many things, will start to bow it it is laid on a floor and gets walked on. The coated plywood idea really won't hold up well. If there is ANY way to salvage the old piece, even if for a male mold then it is a good idea.
 

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Bawugna said:
Before you do this in plywood, what makes you think the old one can't be repaired or recored? There is nothing like a factory molded piece for a good fit. Any of the Starboard type materials while really nice for many things, will start to bow it it is laid on a floor and gets walked on. The coated plywood idea really won't hold up well. If there is ANY way to salvage the old piece, even if for a male mold then it is a good idea.
This is the way I'd try first if I were doing it.

You don't need to use Epoxy if you're going to make a new piece like Consky kid indicated the standard polyeaster resin will work fine, thats the way the original was made. The only time you need the epoxy is if you're going to bond to existing glass.
 
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