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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an older Grady(1972) and I want to fill the old holes from bimini top and other removed items.Most are thru-holes I was going to use an epoxy filler and tape the bottom open end of the screw hole.Is this the best thing to use? I also removed a broken stern light and noticed the core was wood so I guess I have to encapulate as well as fill?
I also noticed a few spider cracks top of gunnels what is the best way to deal with this? I was going to sand past the cracks and apply a fiberglass resin or filler like as in autobody repair is this correct? Any help would be great Thanks Dave
 

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It's not to bad, did a whole bunch last year on my boat...

the biggest is the prep work....and take your time, 3-5 days...
I used a dremel type grinder, and ground the cracks away until it is gone, even if you have to go to the glass, but don't go thru the glass...
for the holes, same around the edges, cracks and chips ground away
before using any filler, get the gelcoat repair kits with the color mix and read what is compatible with..any boat store.
wax paper overlaid on the repair helps cure and get it smooth..and helps contour it if needed...
takes a few steps to get it built up right, patients
final wet sand and buff it out with compound...you'll know your repair, but others won't see it unless you point it out...even the pros can't get the color right on.
an easier way if you can deal with the look and finish...3M 5200 in the holes and leave it, but I'm 95% sure this is not compatible with the polyester resin for gel coat if you want to finish off the top.

I have a major task of filling a void on one of the chines, the glass mat didn't fill in behind the chine when built, it banged the roller and left a nice hole I now have to back up and fill...

good luck, read up as much as you can on the web...
 

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One of the easiest ways to repair small holes is to countersink the edges of the hole . Install a piece of tape on the back side and then fill with thickened resin, marine tex, or a water proof marine filler. Once its dry , sand it to a level just below the original level of the gelcote . Then apply gelcote in paste form or spray , sand , wet sand, then buff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wow I guess i was on the right track-not worried about paint match to much I eventually want to repaint topside if pressuer washing and wet sanding doesn't get the look I want.But your right don't rush the PREP work I understand that! Thats everyones worst mistake. Thanks Guys I have more confidence knowing I was on the right track
 

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I've used marine-tex a lot. It's pretty good for larger, deeper holes and gouges. It's very strong. It's available in white or grey, (use white for fiberglass repairs). They say you can add a pigment for color, but I've never tried it. I think you can gelcoat over it too.
 

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good topic dave. i have a gouge size of a nickel on port side at the transom.[back corner] down to fibergalss. will the same method work? or should it be more involved?
 

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catch22 said:
I've used marine-tex a lot. It's pretty good for larger, deeper holes and gouges. It's very strong. It's available in white or grey, (use white for fiberglass repairs). They say you can add a pigment for color, but I've never tried it. I think you can gelcoat over it too.
I love Marine-Tex the Grey gets harder than the white and is the best that I have used for filling holes, but if my memory servers me right it says in the directions that you can not gel coat over it.

Mike
 
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