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I have a 99 suzuki dt 200 with frozen exhaust gasket bolts. The motor only has 350 hours on it so starting over isnt an option. Some are loose others feel frozen. 36 total to be exact. If anyone has any experience with penetrating oil I'm looking for advice. I'm in no rush and thought if i start spraying the oil now now maybe in another month or so the oil will have done its job. There is room for it to penetrate between the exhaust cover and head since the gasket itself is showing signs of age from the outside. Ultimately I will take it to a mechanic if I even feel like I'm going to snap any off. He said he would have to pull the head and drill them out for a total cost around $700. I have also heard of a product called freeze off which you spray on the bolt and through contraction frees it up.. any try it? Heating it up really isnt an option since the motor pan is plastic and I'm not a big fan of it because of the aluminum head.
 

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this might help you:

PB Blaster=ok. A 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF=Best Ever! Here's the cold, hard facts from the April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop. They did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better.

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

 

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Good luck. Those little Japanese stainless bolts twist off very easy. If he can get them out for $700, its probably a deal.
 

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Start soaking them in PB blaster and keep soaking them for as long as you can. Mixing metals is always a problem.

Brian
 

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I never heard of Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone as for this but sounds like a great idea. I've always used Kroil but I always have ATF and Acetone in the shop.

Thanks for the Tip.
 

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WD-40 & PB Blaster is a waste of time & money. Kroil has always worked for me, Liquid Wrench if the Kroil is not available. I have heard of the ATF/Acetone recipe but have never used it or needed it. Kroil will work in minutes if you can position the part so gravity pulls it down into the threads. Another old trick for exhaust manifold bolts on a running engine is to melt some candle wax on them. The vibration & heat from the running engine will pull the wax into the threads & they will come right out. But you need to do that before you break them.
 

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I use Kroil and PB Blaster. I think Kroil may be a little better but I have never tested them against each other.

They both work but the "key" as others have said it to apply it over a period of days or even weeks. Give it time to soak in.
 

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Definitely use kroil. I have loosened by hand a nut that was rusted for over over 30 years with that stuff. Spray every day for a couple of days and they will free up. By far the best product
 

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$700 is steep for removing a couple stuck bolts

I had 16 I had to get off for the exhaust manifolds on a chevy350 that had been sitting for 8 years, non stainless.

I ended up using PB Blaster but seems as if there are definitely better choices! Get yourself a propane torch and a set of "screw extractors." They are easy to use. Pretty much once you strip or break the head off you drill a hole in the bolt and this screw extracter twists in but counter clockwise, eventually it will lock itself in and you can twist until the bolt comes out. This actually worked out very well and I was able to get them all out. If the current ones are stainless it should be easy to drill. Oh and I used a lot of heat but be mindful of where you shoot the flame :cool:

Just remember if you snap one off you still got more things you can try :thumbsup:
 

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You are probably going to have to use heat on the bolts as well, not too much just enough to expand the metals, do it a few times heating a cooling while soaking it in a penetrant so it can seep in and break up the salt and calcium. another tip is to work it loose, dont go full bore on removing it, but try to tighten a little to get the bolt to move and then loose back and forth to break up the calcium.

if it does break no worry though as you can heli coil it
 
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