BASS BARN banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,027 Posts
Speaking of roller trailer 20', do you jack up one side, paint then do the other side. Or do paint around the rollers and then pull the boat back to access the unpainted spots. Looking for suggestions.
If you can block it off the trailer, the paint job is better and easier.
I jack my trailer up about 6 inches with 3 bottle jacks, block the boat, then lower the trailer down. It gives me enough room to clear the rollers with a paint roller. Its a fair bit of work, but I have 40 rollers to work around.
I used to move the boat back a few inches, paint, then move it forward, but the paint would pull off into the rollers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,509 Posts
I jacked the boat up in the air. Blocked it up then painted it. I have a bunk.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you can block it off the trailer, the paint job is better and easier.
I jack my trailer up about 6 inches with 3 bottle jacks, block the boat, then lower the trailer down. It gives me enough room to clear the rollers with a paint roller. Its a fair bit of work, but I have 40 rollers to work around.
I used to move the boat back a few inches, paint, then move it forward, but the paint would pull off into the rollers.
High Wire clever idea. I think that might work for me. :thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,119 Posts
This is what we use to do and it works on both roller and bunk trailers...

Lower the front of the trailer all the way down. Block up the back nice and snug. We used jack stands, but cinder blocks will work. Use a floor jack and raise the front of the trailer (where the 3 parts come together is the strongest, under the bow eye) Raise it up untill the boat is resting on the back blocks and the trailer eye/ winch on the trailer. Place blocks under the keel, and bring the boat down. Now the boat is sitting on blocks and should be free from the trailer.

Here is what it looks like...








...Or for $12/ft we will come out and do everything and no one gets hurt ;):). This is how we do it now...



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
If you have boat stands it's easier but if not here's what to do.

Lower the toung of the trailer to the ground with a floor jack under it.

Block the to stern corners of the boat with concrete blocks (stack them so the holes are up and down - just like a block wall). Put wood on the top where it hits the boat ( if on grass/dirt put wood under them too).

Jack the toung of the boat up with a floor jack to the point were the front of the trailer is higher then the rear.

Bock the keel of the boat just aft of the bow where it start the flatten out- Usualy a few feet forward of the first cross member on a roller trailer.

Lower the trailer slowly - the boat should now be suppported by the blocks and you should be able to paint and move the trailer several inches forward until the forward cross member gets close to the forward block pile.

If you have boat stands use them inplace of blocks on the stern quarters but also block the stern keel - don't rely on stands to hold all the weight.

None of this should not be attempted on a surface that isn't flat - you should use extreem caution and don't attempt this if you don't feel comfortable. If you are at all unsure call a pro - if the boat falls you can die.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39,867 Posts
If you have boat stands it's easier but if not here's what to do.

Lower the toung of the trailer to the ground with a floor jack under it.

Block the to stern corners of the boat with concrete blocks (stack them so the holes are up and down - just like a block wall). Put wood on the top where it hits the boat ( if on grass/dirt put wood under them too).

Jack the toung of the boat up with a floor jack to the point were the front of the trailer is higher then the rear.

Bock the keel of the boat just aft of the bow where it start the flatten out- Usualy a few feet forward of the first cross member on a roller trailer.

Lower the trailer slowly - the boat should now be suppported by the blocks and you should be able to paint and move the trailer several inches forward until the forward cross member gets close to the forward block pile.

If you have boat stands use them inplace of blocks on the stern quarters but also block the stern keel - don't rely on stands to hold all the weight.

None of this should not be attempted on a surface that isn't flat - you should use extreem caution and don't attempt this if you don't feel comfortable. If you are at all unsure call a pro - if the boat falls you can die.
great advice all the way around :thumbsup:



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,788 Posts
My boat is a Trophy 1802 about 3000lbs. Did mine myself last year. What a mistake. Boat almost fell off my make shift stands. I literally caught my boat from falling over which probably wasn't the best idea but I lucked out and didn't get hurt. After seeing $12 a foot to have someone come to my house and do it I felt like a real a** for doing it myself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,461 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If you have boat stands it's easier but if not here's what to do.

Lower the toung of the trailer to the ground with a floor jack under it.

Block the to stern corners of the boat with concrete blocks (stack them so the holes are up and down - just like a block wall). Put wood on the top where it hits the boat ( if on grass/dirt put wood under them too).

Jack the toung of the boat up with a floor jack to the point were the front of the trailer is higher then the rear.

Bock the keel of the boat just aft of the bow where it start the flatten out- Usualy a few feet forward of the first cross member on a roller trailer.

Lower the trailer slowly - the boat should now be suppported by the blocks and you should be able to paint and move the trailer several inches forward until the forward cross member gets close to the forward block pile.

If you have boat stands use them inplace of blocks on the stern quarters but also block the stern keel - don't rely on stands to hold all the weight.

None of this should not be attempted on a surface that isn't flat - you should use extreem caution and don't attempt this if you don't feel comfortable. If you are at all unsure call a pro - if the boat falls you can die.
GW, I am fortunate that I have a friend who works at a marina who helps me with the boat, hopefully he'll help me out. It's seems every year someone is crushed by their own boat. :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,055 Posts
I would have either capt Phil or Barnicle Bill do it. Capt Phil in fact he will come to you. and Barnacle bills also has a very good deal , only you have to take it to them , Either way, with the cost of paint by the gallon. You can't beat there deals and it is done professionally
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top