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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I may need to replace a floor on a center console aluminum boat. What is the right way to do it? A friend of mine did his a few years ago and used Pressure Treated wood and painted it and it is still good. I was on a few sites and they recomend Marine Grade Pywood. Is Marine grade neccesary? If I used Marine grade do I need to encapsulate it top and bottom? I know Aluminum and copper don't mix and one of the ingredients in pressure treated is copper.(aluminum hull) As a matter of fact building codes around me now require copper sill metal with pressure treated decking. Any help would be appreciated:)
 

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fishpro28 said:
I may need to replace a floor on a center console aluminum boat. What is the right way to do it? A friend of mine did his a few years ago and used Pressure Treated wood and painted it and it is still good. I was on a few sites and they recomend Marine Grade Pywood. Is Marine grade neccesary? If I used Marine grade do I need to encapsulate it top and bottom? I know Aluminum and copper don't mix and one of the ingredients in pressure treated is copper.(aluminum hull) As a matter of fact building codes around me now require copper sill metal with pressure treated decking. Any help would be appreciated:)

PT plywood is too wet to use epoxy on. It won't soak into it. Forget using PT plywood, it has no use on boats. Marine ply uses the same glue any ext plywood uses. They just fill all the voids in each ply of MP before they glue it together. It won't last any longer than PT if it's left get wet. All you need is good AC ext plywood from Homedepot or Lowes.

You have to seal any plywood from water intrusion if you want it to live on a boat...or anywhere else.

http://www.raka.com/UserManual.html

Start here and read how to soak plywood with epoxy... Then buy the slowest setting epoxy here..

http://www.shopmaninc.com/epoxy.html

Epoxy.....not polyester resin...the stuff you put drops of hardener in...set's up in 20-30 minutes. Absolutely no soak time. Epoxy, the slow set stuff not only gives you plenty of work time if you are just learning it's soaking deep into your plywood sealing it from water..

For open deck use you'll need to cover the topside of the sheet with fiberglass cloth. For deck use in what you are talking about I'd use 18oz Woven Roven. It will give you a nice non slip grid patteren and then you paint it with Interlux Interdeck. It's polyurethane with sand grit already in it..
 

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Good info Dunk. Thanks for sharing. Capt.Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info Dunk. I did't know it was that involved. How long will the floor last by using this process? Also, what type of screws do you use to fasten the deck?
 

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I did an 18' Starcraft. AC exterior plywood, coated both sides & the edges with Gluvit (an epoxy) used stainless steel screws with a glob of 5200 on each. I carpeted, because it was fast & easy. Knowing what I know now, would take it and have a Marine Rinolining sprayed in it. Glassing it would be great also. It depends on how much work you want to do. I got rid of the boat so I don't know how long it would last, but I had it for 5 years after I did the work & it was still great.
 

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Dunk -

Why would you use something as heavy as 18oz for fiberglassing a plywood deck? You aren't getting strength from the cloth -- the strength comes from the wood, screws and 5200 bonding the plywood to the deck stringers. So why do you suggest adding all of the weight (not to mention cost) of an 18oz mat?

I used to do the same thing but now I'm using a real lightweight polyproplene finish cloth that has alot of stretch, especially when used with an epoxy like RAKA or West.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Epoxy Paint

After I encapsulate the wood, can I just use the epoxy paint that they use on driveways? Or is that not good or the right thing to do. I want to do a proffesional job but I don't want it too nice as this is a fishing boat. If Dunks way is the right way then that's what I will do.
 

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Dunk's is the right way. But in my opinion the 18 oz roving is not needed. I think he was saying to use the 18 oz for the rough texture to add to the non-skid properties but it will provide more strength than a lighter weight material. I personally would use 1.5 oz strand mat and than either use the interdeck paint,awl grip or my personal favorite so far durabak. A rubberized non-skid waterproof paint taht looks awesome when your done. Super easy stuff to use and get professional quality looks for the amature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
duckdiggler said:
Dunk's is the right way. But in my opinion the 18 oz roving is not needed. I think he was saying to use the 18 oz for the rough texture to add to the non-skid properties but it will provide more strength than a lighter weight material. I personally would use 1.5 oz strand mat and than either use the interdeck paint,awl grip or my personal favorite so far durabak. A rubberized non-skid waterproof paint taht looks awesome when your done. Super easy stuff to use and get professional quality looks for the amature.
Just saw the durabak in one of my boating mags. It comes in alot of colors and looks nice, but is it expensive?
 

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I think anywhere from 69 to 129 a gal. I think it's worth it. I used it on aluminum deck plates on a work boat;where it takes constant abuse with people dropping and scraping things on it and it still looks great. In fact I'll be doing the inside of my Mckee craft with there smooth version of white on the gunnels and the sand color for my non-skid on the floor. I'm going to try to spray the smooth. I won't be doing that until late spring early summer.
 

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As dunk said, MG PY will not be any better then regular PY for your floor, I used MG in my transome simply because I wanted added strength.

I believe if you are concerned with rot U can coat the wood with ethlyene glycol first then seal it with epoxy, the EG fully dry, tests have shown EG to be an excellent barrier against the bacteria that grown in wood and destroys (rots) it.

The real key is to make sure you seal it properly and ANY fasterners your put into it are properly sealed, since you are replacing the floow you should set the design first, if you will need to put holes into the floor set them first and use backing plates and bolt through, do not use screws, these are the number 1 cause of water intrusion into wood.
 

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Shadowrack said:
Dunk -

Why would you use something as heavy as 18oz for fiberglassing a plywood deck? You aren't getting strength from the cloth -- the strength comes from the wood, screws and 5200 bonding the plywood to the deck stringers. So why do you suggest adding all of the weight (not to mention cost) of an 18oz mat?

I used to do the same thing but now I'm using a real lightweight polyproplene finish cloth that has alot of stretch, especially when used with an epoxy like RAKA or West.

The reason why I like the 18oz on a deck is because not much is going to punch thru it by accident. If you work most of the resin out of it with a squeege as you are laying it down the weight isn't much. Of course you can always recoat it with epoxy to minimize gird patteren and bury it a bit, but that adds weight. But the durabilty of the deck is more important than adding a few extra pounds.

Coat it with whatever you want after that because epoxy won't take the sun. It has to be coated with something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
should the bottom of the wood be coated also? Or does it not have to be coated because it is not exposed to the sun? Thanks to all for the replies....very informative:)
 
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