BASS BARN banner
1 - 20 of 81 Posts

· Premium Member
Joined
·
8,914 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)


The Upper Lure Is A Stock Smokey Joe 7" Redfin. The Lower Lure Is A Modified Smokey Joe 7" Redfin AKA, "REDINGFIN ;)

Over the past two + years I developed a way to modify just about any plastic lure you can imagine...with the exception of those that come through-wired from the factory. The idea is simple! Convert a non-through-wired plastic lure with weak hangers, cheap split rings, illogically placed hooks, no depth adjustment, and weak casting abilities into a lure that lacks in none of these departments...without negatively effecting the lures action or it's ability to catch fish. After two + years of testing, I'm confident I've come up with the solution which I will share will all of you here.

Benefits Include:


  • Added Confidence! Especially in the lures that catch well but are poorly constructed. Everyone knows big fish eat small baits. The problem is, a lot of smaller lures are not built for big fish (weak hangers, thin wire hooks, cheap split rings, etc). Using this modification procedure changes all that!
  • Through-Wired construction
  • 100% foam filled. No more lures filling with water!
  • Non-fixed hangers in the form of 130# Spo Swivels.
  • The ability to create your own hook arrangement. Striped Bass anglers, get rid of that useless tail hook and add an additional belly hook!
  • Adjust your lures depth by adding weight or adjusting the wire.
  • Add the exact amount of weight, right where you want it, with the use of magnets (I will describe this procedure later).
  • Replace weak, thin wire, inferior hooks with superior hooks like VMC 4X strong, without worrying about pulling hangers or splitting lures.
  • Improve your lures castability.
  • Replace tail hooks with bucktail.
  • No more weak, cheap, failing split rings. You'll no longer need split rings for your plastics.
  • Add new life to old, dysfunctional lures. This method will resolve just about any defect your plastic lure can have; cracks, splits, pulled hangers, etc.


The one and only disadvantage I've come across so far using this mentod is the inability to add an effective rattle. The modification will render lures with stock rattles, rattleless (if that's a word?) In any case, In my opinion, it's not a bad price to pay for the added benefits.


Below is a list of materials, tools and instructions for doing the modification. The example below is a typical 7" Redfin modification. Feel free to adapt these procedures to whatever plastic lure you like...provided it's not already through-wired. Some of the lures I've modified to date include; 5" & 7"Redfins, Top Guns, One Minus, 17A Bombers, 16A Jointed Bombers, 4.5" Mega-Baits, 5" & 7" Mambo Minnows, Creek Chub Pikies, and Windcheaters.

Ok, here we go...


Materials



  • Nose/Tail Grommets, 0.152" OD (brass or nickel plated)
  • Spro Power Swivels Size #4 - 130lb
  • 2/0 VMC #9626PS Permasteel Treble Hooks
  • 0.062" OD x 11" LG #304L Annealed Stainless Steel Wire
  • Belly Grommets (5/32" Eyelets found at craft stores)
  • Foam Sealant (Great Stuff)
  • Epoxy (30 minute or 5 minute depending on how many lures your building)

Tools


  • Propane Torch
  • Pliers
  • Drill
  • Drill Bits - 12" long 5/32", 3/16", 13/64"
  • Round Nose Pliers
  • Split Ring Pliers
  • Sharpie
  • Icepick
  • Bench Grinder or flat file
  • Vice
  • End Nipper Pliers (used to snip the hook eye to fit over the Spro swivel)

Instructions

Step #1 - Remove All Hardware & Hangers.


  1. Remove hooks and split rings.
  2. Heat hangers with propane torch until you're able to pull them out with pliers.
  3. Use a bench grinder or flat file to flatten out the tip of the nose and the end of the tail. You won't need much. Just enough to create flat surfaces for the nose & tail grommets to seat properly.

Note: This step should be performed in a well ventilated area. I do not recommend doing this indoors...or at least not in your house. I also recommend using a respirator to avoid breathing in any fumes created by the melting plastic.

Note: The rear hanger on 7" Redfins may need more heat than the nose and belly hangers.
In newer style Redfins the tail hangers are longer then the nose & belly hangers.

Step #2 - Mark New Hook Configuration



  1. With the hardware removed, use a Sharpie to mark a dot on the belly where you'd like the hooks to be placed. Center your marks down the middle of the lure as best you can.


Note: Be sure the front hook doesn't catch the lip, and the two belly hooks don't catch each other.

Note: If you're doing a lot of lures, you may want to consider constructing a template to use for hook placement.

Step #3 - Prepare Locations To Be Drilled


Before drilling, heat up the tip of your icepick. Use the ice pick to start the holes. This will make the drilling process much easier. It will also ensure the wire is centered which will aid in the wiring process.


  1. Heat the icepick with a propane torch
  2. Press heated icepick into the nose, tail and belly hook locations. Center the holes as best you can.


Note: You don't need to insert the icepick too far. All you want to do is create a starter hole for drilling.

Step #4 - Drill The Lure

I prefer to drill the lures in two steps. You may find doing it all at once works best for you?






  1. Place the lure horizontally, belly up in a vice.
  2. Start at the nose with a 12" long - 5/32" drill bit. Use a slight upward angle to drill through the nose hanger anchor and the belly hanger anchor. You'll want to angle the drill up on a slight angle so you don't miss the center hanger anchor. The center hanger anchor begins at the belly of the lure and extends up about 1/2 way to the top (see image). The drill bit may pass over the top of the center hanger anchor if not drilled at a slight angle. If you miss drilling the center hanger anchor, wiring the lure will be much more difficult...if not impossible.
  3. Start at the tail and drill through the tail hanger anchor. You can drill through the center hanger anchor again if you like. Another hole won't hurt. If anything it may make wiring the lure a bit easier.
  4. Drill out the two belly hook locations using a 3/16" drill bit.
  5. Use a slightly larger bit 13/64" to drill a hole between the two belly hook locations. Go easy! You can drill through the entire lure if you're not careful. This hole will be used to inject the foam sealant.
  6. Remove any shavings from the body of your lure.


Step #5 - Wire The Lure




  1. Prepare two belly grommets by pressing Spro swivels though the centers (see image)
  2. Next take your wire and add a nose grommet
  3. Pass the wire through the nose hanger anchor, center hanger anchor, two Spo swivels and the tail anchor hanger. If you're not used to wiring lures, this part may take some practice.
  4. Use round nose pliers to finish the wire job


Step #6 - Epoxy Belly Grommets


  1. Apply epoxy to the lure around each belly grommet hole
  2. Press the belly grommet down. You can use your round nose pliers to round them off if you like.
  3. Use a rag to wipe off any epoxy that may have squeezed out during the process.

Note: You may need to use your fingernail to pry up the belly grommets enough to slip some epoxy under them.

Note: Use 30 minute epoxy if you're doing a bunch of lures, 5 minute if only a few.


Step #7 - Foam The Lure

You will need to have a plan for storing your lures after foaming them. The foam you will be adding expands as it cures. The expanding foam seeps out of every crack, hole, etc. The idea is to keep as much of the expanding/seeping foam from getting on your lures as possible. Foam sealant is a mess! It sticks to everything and destroys the lures finish. I built a drying rack that works well for me (see image).




  1. Remove the long extension tube from your can of foam sealant so the spout fits in the hole you drilled to fill the lure.
  2. Fill the lure by injecting foam sealant into the previously drilled hole between the two belly hooks. Don't go nuts! Remember foam sealant expands as it drys.
  3. Place your foamed lure in a rack, belly down.
  4. Use an icepick to remove any seeping foam that may curl up and come in contact with the lures finish.
  5. Allow the foam a day or so to cure completely


Note: While drying, foam sealant will drip from the lures. Don't do this in the house!


Step #8 - The Finishing Touches!



  1. Remove all cured foam that may have seeped from the lure
  2. Add hooks
  3. Add tail
  4. Take it for a swim
Before I skip out, I want to thank Dave Christinzio (DaveC), Dave Gabriel (Pop Pop) and Sam Fritchie (SRF) for giving me the inspiration to even think about modifying a lure in the first place. Just about everything I know about lures, I learned from these guys. If it wasn't for them putting me on big fish, with cheap plastic lures, none of this would have ever come about. Thanx guys :thumbsup:

-Ron Redington
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
8,914 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
This is awesome Ron. Great idea for this time of year. I got some Megabaits that will get this treatment.
Thanx Squid!

You're gonna luv the way the Mega-Baits swim with the additional belly hook and the bucktail hair for a tail :thumbsup:

Removing the weights is a little tricky on the Mega-Baits. The center hole has to be drilled larger in order to remove the steel balls. You'll see what I mean when you start messing with'em.

Don't forget to post your creations so we can check'em out :)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Congrats to Ron for perfecting the process, after two years of personally fishing his various modified plastic plug design with great success and dependability. Of course finding bass to cooperate is always the first priority.

The only negative is loosing the internal rattles of some the plugs. Maybe someone on the barn will come with a idea to insert some type of rattle, with the limited space after the thru wire installation.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
This idea has been the biggest innovation that anyone has ever provided to the fishing scene. The Redingfin solved so many problems that we were having with many lures. Thanks again, Ron.:thumbsup:
 

· Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Ron------------All I can say is WOW. I would never have thought of that modification in my wildest dreams. I have a couple beaters that have been sitting on the shelf for years waiting to be refurbished, now I have a project. Any idea if older ( 25-35 years ) 7 " rebels are thru-wired ? Thanks for passing this along. I'm sure it took alot of trial and error to perfect.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,122 Posts
Ron you make good use of your down time,..It's unfortunate that I don't have the uninterupted time to devote to this venture, Maybe I should just send my inadequate smaller Redfins, freshwater Rebels to you and anything else I can find in my stash of unused plugs to YOU for the supertuning... and Fresh graffixs!!!! LOL..at a nominal FEE of course how about 50 cents a plug .LOL

GREAT JOB on bringing those fish catchers back into circculation..:D:D:D.


Live 2 Fish
<><
Forced 2 Work

P.S. These kind of threads are a thousand times more entertaining to me than the arguing about the Eagles, Politics. Or other peeps Opinions !!!!
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
8,914 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Congrats to Ron for perfecting the process, after two years of personally fishing his various modified plastic plug design with great success and dependability.
I remember the look on your face the first time you saw the 7" Redingfins...you looked impressed. When you saw them swim, you cracked a smile. When you landed your first Bass with one...well...that's when I knew we had a winner :)

I appreciate the field testing my friend :thumbsup:


Of course finding bass to cooperate is always the first priority.
You got that right! Lures are useless if ya can't locate fish...which, BTW is what you do best. So leave the lure building to me and focus on putting us on fish ;)

The only negative is loosing the internal rattles of some the plugs. Maybe someone on the barn will come with a idea to insert some type of rattle, with the limited space after the thru wire installation.
I'm sure someone will come up with something :)
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
8,914 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This idea has been the biggest innovation that anyone has ever provided to the fishing scene.
WOW! Coming from you my friend...well...that's quite a compliment! Your knowledge of lures and their history never ceases to amaze me! If you say my method of modifying plastic lures is an "innovation"...well, I'm not gonna argue with ya :thumbsup:

The Redingfin solved so many problems that we were having with many lures.
This coming from a guy who blows up more Redfins then the law allows ;)

I'm still waiting on the Muskie field test report :D

Thanks again, Ron.:thumbsup:
No need to thank me Dave! The truth is, I should be thanking you! As I mentioned in my original post, it's because of you, Pop Pop and Sam that I was given the opportunity to come up with the idea. If it wasn't for the three of you, there would be no "innovation."

Thanx Dave!
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
8,914 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Ron------------All I can say is WOW. I would never have thought of that modification in my wildest dreams.
I probably wouldn't have either if it wasn't for Dave, Pop Pop and Sam. These guys took me under their wing and taught me the fine art of fishing lures.

Their problem was that some of the lures they fished were...well...let's just say they didn't hold up too well. They got the fish to eat, but the hookup ratio stunk (thanx to the illogical hook placement - 1 belly hook & 1 tail hook on a 7" lure). Not only that, the hangers would twist & pull until the lure split and filled with water. It was annoying to say the least. Thankfully none of us have to worry about that anymore :)

I have a couple beaters that have been sitting on the shelf for years waiting to be refurbished, now I have a project. Any idea if older ( 25-35 years ) 7 " rebels are thru-wired ?
One way to tell is to look at the hangers. Typically round hangers indicate the lure is not through-wired. While horseshoe shaped hangers tend to be wired (see photos).



This is a 7" Redfin that is NOT through-wired. Notice the round shape of the hanger.



This is a 7" Spro that's fully through-wired. Notice the horseshoe shape on the hanger.



Same thing with the nose. Notice the difference in shapes.

Thanks for passing this along. I'm sure it took alot of trial and error to perfect.
My pleasure! Good luck with your lures!

BTW, don't forget to let us see how they turn out. I haven't done any Rebles...yet :)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Ron, it was an incredible idea that made a great deal of sense.:)

Take some great fish catching lures with a ton of issues that lure manufacturers would not address, and turn them into indestructable, water repelling, castable cow catchers. Who would have ever thought a 40lb class bass could be caught on a 5 inch Mambo or Redfin without concerns of hangers being pulled out or the plug taking on water, which would render the plug useless from that point forward.

There is no doubt that we drop far fewer bass because of the modifications that you have not just thought about doing, but actually followed through with every single improvement and somehow the lures still run true......you are my hero!!!!!

Ron , Im impressed. You really took the time to explain everything in great detail. Anyone who has interest in modifying their lures should know that it is alot easier than it looks if your only planning to do a couple....we just happened to go overboard:nuts:, which made it alot of work because of the amount of lures that we did ( not all models were mentioned )

Anyway great job Ron and Ill see you at the sweat shop.....:thumbsup:
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
8,914 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Ron, it was an incredible idea that made a great deal of sense.:)
After seeing DaveC split so many Redfins down the middle, listening to Dave G complain about why they put a single belly hook on a 7" lure, and living through the agony of watching you drop so many fish, I kinda figured it was the right thing to do :D

I said "you," what I meant to say was "us." ;)

Take some great fish catching lures with a ton of issues that lure manufacturers would not address, and turn them into indestructable, water repelling, castable cow catchers. Who would have ever thought a 40lb class bass could be caught on a 5 inch Mambo or Redfin without concerns of hangers being pulled out or the plug taking on water, which would render the plug useless from that point forward.
Forget all of that! What really impresses me is the fact that you have to hide them from Pop Pop ;) Ya know you're onto something if Pop Pop tries to slip your lures into his bag.

Sorry Pop Pop...I couldn't resist :razz:

There is no doubt that we drop far fewer bass because of the modifications that you have not just thought about doing, but actually followed through with every single improvement and somehow the lures still run true......you are my hero!!!!!
No doubt Sammy! Our hookup ratios improved considerably! I still remember all the experimenting we were doing with hooks & split rings. We could get the fish to eat, but we couldn't keep'em on the hooks :( Now our biggest problem is remembering to bring the electronics (hehe).

Ron , Im impressed. You really took the time to explain everything in great detail. Anyone who has interest in modifying their lures should know that it is alot easier than it looks if your only planning to do a couple....we just happened to go overboard:nuts:, which made it alot of work because of the amount of lures that we did ( not all models were mentioned )
Sam's right! It may look like a lot of work, but it's really not. Once you get into it, the process with get easier and easier.

Anyway great job Ron and Ill see you at the sweat shop.....:thumbsup:
The sweat shop is open for business! Put them diapers down and get your butt over here!

Thanx for everything Sam! I couldn't have done it without ya!
 
1 - 20 of 81 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top