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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My Stereo is powered up only when the battery switch is on. Every time we fire up the boat, we have to look for stations. I want to keep the presets alive.

I'm thinking of using one of those 9 volt 'memory savers', and splicing it into the memory power feed for the radio, and the common ground.

I don't want to run a dedicated wire all the way back to the battery.

Whaddayathink?
 

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You could always use the hot wire from the bilge pump switch as your power wire to your radio. The bilge pump if it is wired correctly usually is hot all the time. Check it with a meter or test light. I could be wrong but I don't think the 9-volt thing would work because of the way the voat is wired. Like I said I may be wrong but it may be worth a shot.
 

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toolguy73 said:
My Stereo is powered up only when the battery switch is on. Every time we fire up the boat, we have to look for stations. I want to keep the presets alive.

I'm thinking of using one of those 9 volt 'memory savers', and splicing it into the memory power feed for the radio, and the common ground.

I don't want to run a dedicated wire all the way back to the battery.

Whaddayathink?

9 volt battery savers drain within hours.
 

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Connect the memory wire from the radio to the positive post on battery. Make sure you fuse it with the proper inline fuse. Hooking up the memory to battery should not cause a problem because there is min draw on battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
dreadthis1 said:
" I don't want to run a dedicated wire all the way back to the battery."

Why not?
:confused:
Not sure what the draw is, and I don't really want to pull the battery down.

Stugots.

I'm thinking it would, too on a car. There's a lot more going on than just a radio.

gothooked

We have 2 bilge pumps. The deck is self draining. The main is wired direct to one of the batteries, and is a Rule 800 automatic without a switch. The kind that cycles. The emergency is a same kind 2000, out of the loop until the batteries are switched on. It is switched on the dash.
 

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You could try an A23, (12 volt) battery. They are similar to a "AA".
http://www.batteryprice.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=267

I agree with Frank Jr, I think the memory draw is very little. For a couple of bucks, I think it's worth trying... see how long it lasts?

One thing you might want to check is - when you switch your boat battery on, does it put power to that memory wire, (even if it's not connected)? If it does, that might be a problem, because it would then try to "charge" the A23.
 

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You are the luckiest man on this board! Everyone is talking about blown engines,bad fuel tanks,fiberglass repair etc... :D Where is the radio mounted?there has to be a hot wire somewhere close.
 

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It shouldn't drain the battery. Most car radios have a 24/7 hot wire, and the battery never goes dead. I think once it reaches the radio, it is knocked down to a lower volt, so not to drain the battery.
 

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Not sure abut using a 9 volt battery on a 12 volt radio. Mabey you could get something from radio shack that holds 8 d batteries (1.5 volts *8 = 12 volts).

I would also check with the radio manufacturer. I recently bought a clarion and the red wire is not fused but the yellow memory wire is heavier than the red wire and has a 15 amp fuse. The instruction say run the red to an accessory switch and run the yellow directly to the battery. The radio won't run without the yellow wire connected to the battery. In my case I beleive the yellow wire powers the amp and memory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just FYI.

This radio needs 12 volts going to both power wires. Without that, the radio won't even power up.:(

Plan B or C will be implemented next week, after a few tests.

Thanks for the help.
 

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I have a Poly Planar stereo. I also have a Xantrex Link 20 that measures accurately current battery draw at any state. The memory presets are wired directly to the battery via an orange wire. The main power is wired whereby when I switch my battery the stereo is powered off. Both clock function and radio pre-sets are maintained. Amperage draw reading when boat is off is <0.1 of an amp...for what it's worth.
 

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There has to be a consistantly hot wire nearby to pick up power even when your swith is off. I'd be really leary of hooking up a lower voltage (not 12) volt battery into the circuit. It could fry and might even explode. Then you'd have all that caustic, corrosive sh*t everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the input. There are no live wires up there when the battery switch is off. We rewired the boat in 05.

Time to run a wire...............
 

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If the boat is wired correctly every wire and circuit in the boat should be dead except for the bilge pump. The auto float on the pump should wired with a water proof fuse directly to the battery.

My advice would be to just run the wire to your battery. That wire should be covered wire as in duplex type wiring and it should also be fused. You might as well just do it right the first time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Dunk said:
If the boat is wired correctly every wire and circuit in the boat should be dead except for the bilge pump. The auto float on the pump should wired with a water proof fuse directly to the battery.
That's exactly the way we did it in 05.

[/quote=Dunk]My advice would be to just run the wire to your battery. That wire should be covered wire as in duplex type wiring and it should also be fused. You might as well just do it right the first time.[/quote]

And that's what we're gonna do now.
 
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