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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im searching for some help with a rod building question. I have been using Flex Coat High Build for my wrapping sealer and I have had two rods that the clear will not completly set. I am doing all the recomended things proper mixing and measuring. Anyone with some info would be appreciated. Thanx
 

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There are a few guys on here who build. I just got into it myself. I just flex coated my first rod last week. Short of exact measuring and mixing, temperature is a concern. I think they recommend 75 degrees or so. Also, did you place the two bottles in hot water prior to measuring and mixing? Evidently, this helps the two components activate properly.

Good luck.

K

PM Paul708, he often gives advice on here.
 

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If your not getting proper setting, I would think its something to do with your mix. If its not setting, I would think your ratio was off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Rod Building Help

Thanx for input , I did not put bottles in hot water first. My real issue is that I have done three rods with this kit and one is fine and a repair came out fine. I am going to try another brand of finish coat and hope.
 

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Do you use syringes to get an accurate mix? Preheating the bottles in water definitely makes the epoxy easier to work with. I like Classic better then Flex
 

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Make sure you use the exact same amount of both parts and mix them well. Also make sure part A is not cloudy. You can heat them in water, I use a microwave (about 10 seconds). I put on a lite coat first to seal the threads then 2 coats of high build. Also if you are cleaning your brushes in thinner make sure they are dry so it doesn't affect the finish.
 

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Mixing problems

Now what do you do with finish which has not hardened? All is not lost. Rub acetone on stickey finish. Wait 24 hours. Then put another coat of flex coat on and you should be fine. Your problem is caused by not mixing equal amounts of a and b. Try using measuring spoons. Heating a and b makes it easier to put on finish but does not affect finish as to stop it from hardening. If you have any other questions contact me. Good luck. Ed Dougherty :)
 

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good doctor said:
Now what do you do with finish which has not hardened? All is not lost. Rub acetone on stickey finish. Wait 24 hours. Then put another coat of flex coat on and you should be fine. Your problem is caused by not mixing equal amounts of a and b. Try using measuring spoons. Heating a and b makes it easier to put on finish but does not affect finish as to stop it from hardening. If you have any other questions contact me. Good luck. Ed Dougherty :)

I'd listen to him. He taught me everything I know. :D

Kevin
 

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TJHUNTER I believe I can "CURE" your problem. This is important! When you mix do you mix in a container, and paint out of the same container?
If you do, this is equivelent to allowing illegal immegrants to cross the border while you watch, and not contact the proper authorities.
Mix the finish, for 2 mins, 45 seconds. then pour the finish out onto a 9" paper plate, or sheet of alumionum foil. The finish has to be spread out. Yes, one time it cures, and the next time it doesnt. The flat surface pour is very important.
If you are painting in the basemant, or garage, and yeah you got the heat on, the dehumidifier going, no way Jose ! Its nort going to cure!
The finish is moisture sensitive, and while the basement might feel good to you, remember the epoxy has feelings too!
The "heat it up" in the microwave trick. Be carefull. KHP mentioned 75 degrees, yes you have to be at about 68 -80 degrees, again, a warm cellar doesnt work.
GOOD DOCTOR, I will be performing brain surgery on monday morning, you may assist, bring your Dexter. The draw back of rubbing any solvent on the finish is that you will transfer dust to the surface. If its tacky, just paint over it, it will cure.
Bob ECT, it has come to my attention that you may be a communist sympathiser, is that why you told him to put the bottles in warm water?
Thats a bit dangerous as you could get even a small amount of moisture near the finish, and thus a POLYAMINE BLUSH, that is a rainbow in the finish. You are right, Classic is good, try preheating about 5-8 seconds in the microwave, you will find a time that works for you, 10 seconds may be too long, it will brush well in the beginning, but then kicks in too rapidly, and you might find yourelf fighting with it, and inducing bubbles.
mkololch Andy Dear has a finish called Thread Master, It works well. In my shop the ceilings are about 10' high, or lets say well ventilated. If I mix an ounce of his stuff, it smells like the diesel fumes from the Bounty Hunter when he starts his engines below my office. I hate the smell of deisel fumes, that stuff is nasty, but yes it works. GAG,GAG,COUGH!
If you have Flexcoat, you have the best, in self leveling, the abilty to dab, the best cure, dispersing bubbles, I have used them all, and then used them again just for the hell of it, Flexcoat is the best!
TJ, pleaase respond to the BIG three! did you Paint out of the container, in the basement, or cellar? You know, in Saudia Arabia, these actions are considered 'politically subversive'. the penalties SEVERE!!!
Good luck! Kevin Bogan
 

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Fish Poison said:
Bob ECT, it has come to my attention that you may be a communist sympathiser, is that why you told him to put the bottles in warm water?
Thats a bit dangerous as you could get even a small amount of moisture near the finish, and thus a POLYAMINE BLUSH, that is a rainbow in the finish. You are right, Classic is good, try preheating about 5-8 seconds in the microwave, you will find a time that works for you, 10 seconds may be too long, it will brush well in the beginning, but then kicks in too rapidly, and you might find yourelf fighting with it, and inducing bubbles.
Who in the dry dock told you that? :D I'll give the microwave a try. Haven't had a problem with the water but I don't build rods everyday. I only dip the bottoms of the bottle in a pot of heated water so it can't really get inside the bottle.
 

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Bob ECT said:
Who in the dry dock told you that? :D I'll give the microwave a try. Haven't had a problem with the water but I don't build rods everyday. I only dip the bottoms of the bottle in a pot of heated water so it can't really get inside the bottle.
The Flex coat web site doesn't poo poo water...
here's what they say...

Temperature Check
Prior to measuring equal portions we like our finish to be around 80 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature makes it easier to measure equal portions and mix the finish thoroughly. In cold weather we heat the A and B bottles with a lamp, space heater, hair dryer, warm tap water or other heat source until the bottles are no longer cool to touch but not warm (neutral to touch). If the resins are too warm (over 100 degrees F) the catalytic reaction occurs too quickly.


If I'm working with any kind of epoxy and I need accurate temps for finishing...I use a warm water bath with a thermometer to make sure the resin and hardener are at the correct temps...
 

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Capt. Scott said:
The Flex coat web site doesn't poo poo water...
here's what they say...
The key is not getting any water in the bottle. If you do you'll have the rainbow effect Fishpoison mentioned. I wouldn't hold the bottle under the tap for fear it could get inside or some be left on the rim and effect the epoxy. I warm water in a small pot, put the bottoms of the bottle in, shake, and repeat until it's fluid and easy to measure in the syringe.

I never had a problem with that method but I don't build rods all the time like Kevin does
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Response To Rod Building Question

Gentleman, Thanks alot for all your suggestions. Some of your tips may be my problem. I do work in my basement my shop is finished but it is not 70 deg. either. I will also try the warming of my material. At least I know that I can clean the rod with acetone and try again. I just ordered another kit of sealer as I am alittle nervous about using anymore of the kit I have.Thanks to all for your input I will let you know how I make out.
 

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the micro wave is safer as you dont have to go near water at all. TJ, find two old rods, Mix and coat one in your basement. With a separate mix, try one in your kitchen or bedroom, you will see a difference, and what about the flat pour, did you try it?
 

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Instead of using the syringes I have switched to using measuring spoons, I feel that I get a much more accurate measurement. I have also switched over to using Aftcote finish, I like it a lot better than Flexcoat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
No, I havent tried the flat pour as yet but I will tomorrow. And I will use the nuke method as well. Great idea about using an old rod I think I may have like 67 of them to pic form. Again thanks for the help. TJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Somehow my reply went to a different thread. No I havent tried the flat pour as yet but will tomorrow. I will also try the nuke method for warming material. Also that was a great idea about using an old rod I think I have like about 67 to pic from. Thanks again for all your help. TJ
 

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Just remember with the microwave, as you use up the finish in the bottle's it won't take as long to heat up. Start low (5 sec.) you want it warm not hot. Good Luck.
 
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