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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everybody,

I recently purchased a Conventional Saltiga 50 and am looking for a rod to match it for jigging. I am probably going to be using 80lb braid and around 15-20lbs of drag (occasionally up to 25lbs if the need arises). I do not want to spend much over $200 for this rod. I was looking for opinions upon what to purchase. I will also say that I would be interested in blanks to build one myself if it would be cheaper, as I have built several of my own rods. Thanks in advance for your opinions...

~Brent
 

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brent.

i use the saltiga 50..good choice.

my budget custom is 229.00
its a great rod.

it comes in 100g to 600g weights.
so there is a rod for everyone.

comes conventional, acid wrapped, or spinner

you can also upgrade and get cork grips.
 
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What type of boat will you be mainly fishing (headboat or private/charter boat), and what's your preferred jigging style (regular or Japanese)?

I have that reel on an 9' Calstar blank that was cut back to a 14 tip which made it 8' overall, for fishing mainly from partyboats. I put on a long foregrip made of double layer cork tape with a shrink wrap over it for protection against the boat's railing. The rod does everything I need it to offshore, from jigging tuna or cod to tilefishing.
 

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Hey everybody,

I recently purchased a Conventional Saltiga 50 and am looking for a rod to match it for jigging. I am probably going to be using 80lb braid and around 15-20lbs of drag (occasionally up to 25lbs if the need arises). I do not want to spend much over $200 for this rod. I was looking for opinions upon what to purchase. I will also say that I would be interested in blanks to build one myself if it would be cheaper, as I have built several of my own rods. Thanks in advance for your opinions...

~Brent
Brent,
25 lbs. is a lot of drag but certainly nothing unusual in our new 'drag era'.
I think a machined seat is worth consideration. What guide do you want under that pressure, 3 brace, 4 brace? why not 6 brace?
Doesn't this add to the weight? Yes, about an ounce, anyone can handle that. The integrity of the components far outweigh that arguement.
We have a line of American built [on the banks of the Squan river] jig sticks, 'Fish Poison" that go between $175-200. Killer rods on their worse day. Includes your name and fish decal.
As for you building it, you can do a glass composite with components for about $100, an OTI, or Calstar for around $150. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you for all of your insight. I am concerned that with heavy drag and a fast running fish like a tuna that I should have some decent guides on this rod if I do choose to build it. Is there anything that makes you builders think that moving up from Hardloy guides to something like alconite or SIC is truely warranted?

I know I have read that none of them will groove, but do Hardloy guides dissipate the heat worse or something than the higher end guides? What would I be paying more for?
 

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i use Mostly FUJI alconite OR FUJI SIC.

Its a "standard" for me.

and

Hardloy OR CHEAPER guides if guy is REALLY ON A BUDGET:D
but really hardly ever use those for jigging rods.

Heat dispersion, smother polished rings, slight weight differance,frame material. are all reasons for a upgrade in guides.
 

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You don't use tuna because you use Hardloy guides.
I used hardloy guides for tuna at least 15 years without any single issue.
However the problem of Hardloy guides are they get cracked easily.
Even you have a tiny crack on you guides, braided line can get cut easily.

I just got 'new super carbon' Black Hole jigging blanks. They are srongest blanks ever introduced in the US and have nice action.
Paul708 got the blanks for custom jigging rods already.
Complete Black Hole jigging rods with Fuji SIC guides will arrive by the end of Feb.

---------------------------

www.jignpop.com
 

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I use Hardloy guides on most of my rods. The braid will not wear through hardloy. A hardloy guide will out last the user, no if ands or butts. Silicon arguably has what is called a greater hardness factor. It is nescessary or a wire line rod, but for mono or braid you will be long dead before the guide gives up. I would be careful to suggest that they are used on 'budget' rods. I will stack my hardloy guide rod up against anything on the market, custom or factory ay any price, built by anyone.
Kil, I dont think that a hardloy guide will chip or break anymore than silicon or anything else. I think its more about luck. If you accidentily hit the ring against a hard surface, the rail or cleat on a boat, then any guide could break. ALL ceramic guides are super hardened, like a coffee cup. Drop it on something hard and it will break, chip, crack etc.
Here's a good one. I have seen it argued that many builders and factories use Fuji guides, as if they are the "Standard" of the industry. What do you do when a guy has spent HUNDREDS of dollars on a rod and the guide starts "Rusting". :thumbsdown: and, they will:thumbsdown:Now that's a bargain.:thumbsdown:
 

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Hi Kevin,
I don't know. I had many hardloy tip guides were damaged, but I sedom had such a problem after I started to use Fuji SIC guides.
So I recommend to use SIC tip guide when they use Hardloy guides.
 

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KSONG,
you old son of a Sea Cook! :thumbsup: What I've found is that most tips used are not heavy duty. I do a lot of guides and tip reapirs and see all types of damage.
If a Mushroom ring and HD frame are used they shoulnd break by themselves. Thats why we epoxy fortify out tips.
It's 17 degrees out there, you should be fishing.:)
 
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