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Discussion Starter #21
Got my port side all done, ran into an engine mount issue on the starboard side, will be working on that side this week and next week. Got the bottom painted too.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
So the starboard side engine mounts were totally frozen, Had to remove the rear mounts while supporting the trans, break everything loose, then reinstall. Did one bracket at a time, and that process took all day. Spent a bulk of the time crammed below deck twisted and contorted into a space in order to get both hands to get to everything. had my 14yr old son along to help, thank god!
Got the engine mounts working great, was able to get the coupling adjusted to with in .004, going to finalize the install, got to run water lines to the shaft logs, then reinstall rudders. Fingers crossed nothing leaks once the boat is launched. Hoping for splash next week or weekend.
IMG_0094.jpg
Here you can see the left mount has been installed, and about to install the right mount. Had to replace the left mount bed bolts as one was completely rusted and broken.
 

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One reason why I would not own a twin inboard boat. A single diesel downeast at most, otherwise outboards for me . Stand outside the boat and work on them. Just my opinion. Good luck on your repairs and thanks for the updates.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I disagree, inboards are way easier to work on then outboards. Much cheaper to purchase, maintain, diagnose and typically have far less issues. IMO

And as far as a single diesel, ever try docking a single screw inboard in 15 knot wind, with a ripping current? Diesel engines are fuel efficient if your doing 8 knots, but once you bring any boat on plane your still burning roughly the same in fuel.

All the stuff I am working on are neglects of maintenance and updates by the previews owners.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Got all the work done to only find I got a stuck starboard motor..... LOL

So we are pickling her in Marvel Mystery Oil to see if we can free her up....
Frustrating to say the least. But its not the end of the world, even if I need to replace I can do all the work myself, just may decide to do a proper restoration, replace tanks and paint bilge...

So far we have MMO in her soaking, going to go back Thursday and see if she budges, even if she does will pickle her again in MMO cut with ATF, then drain, do a compression test and test fire.
 

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Got all the work done to only find I got a stuck starboard motor..... LOL

So we are pickling her in Marvel Mystery Oil to see if we can free her up....
Frustrating to say the least. But its not the end of the world, even if I need to replace I can do all the work myself, just may decide to do a proper restoration, replace tanks and paint bilge.

So far we have MMO in her soaking, going to go back Thursday and see if she budges, even if she does will pickle her again in MMO cut with ATF, then drain, do a compression test and test fire.
Motors do not get "stuck" for no reason. What I have seen, is a few definite possibilities. Incorrect winterizing procedure. Improper maintenance of Elbows and manifolds, specially on raw water cooled motors. And keep in mind All the work you just did. Make sure the motor is not stuck due to any thing you just worked on.
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
I agree there is always a reason, they just may not be apparent all the time!. Manifolds and elbows new last season on that engine. Since all the work done was mostly on running gear, that can me eliminated. The only thing we did not do is fog the motor when we winterized. My guess is that's what the culprit was, but really right now that is not my concern, getting the motor working is.

And if we dont get her spinning then she goes in for a complete resto, the engines are 18yrs old, tanks original. Yank the motors and rebuild, install a new set of tanks and clean up and paint bilge and tidy up wiring..... Since I can do all the work myself, its not that bad of a thing to have to do to keep the old girl plowing the waves.
 
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Discussion Starter #30
Going down this weekend with a breaker bar to try and spin the motor, been pickling it in MMO the past 2 weeks. squired it in all the cylinders till it ran out, down the intake and even removed the valve covers and shot MMO down the valves and lifters....
 

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Good Luck i hope it works out well for you :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Didnt budge with 25" beaker bar, left with the bar wedged with a block of wood applying pressure to see if it lets go, will try adding a little more leverage, but if it still wont move, then will pull heads to see whats what.
 

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Maybe try the 50/50 mix of Acetone and auto transmission fluid supposed to be the best rust/corrosion cutter.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I got the cylinders full of MMO at the moment. But going to make up a mix of diesel and ATF to start adding to it, if it does not let go this week.
 

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I can't see it being stuck, just for not fogging unless you had other issues like a head gasket unless you didn't run antifreeze through the raw water system either before layup, which if it's a salt boat you have to be nuts not to do. Still cheaper to long block than an outboard is right, but you'll have to do everything you've already done all over again plus. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #37
When we winterize I usually run the engines on straight -50 antifreeze approx 4 to 5 gallons in each engine. The engines are fresh water cooled. Engine ran like a top last season, never an issue. Its a real mystery.

I have not been able to get to the boat due to work and weather. So she is still soaking with MMO. I'm going away till Tuesday, If weather is good will run down Thursday after work to give the breaker bar a work out and will bring a can of either diesel and ATK or Acetone and ATF to re-soak everything.

I can get a long block for around 2K and swap out, and may still do it, but I got the rest of the summer to play around with the motor to see if I get to move.
If I do go the long block route, I will most likely pull both motors, replace fuel tanks and completely clean and paint bilge..... Right now I can have an engine unbuttoned and ready to pull in under 20 minutes, I have crazy easy access. They lift straight up and out. The engines in this boat were installed back in 2000 by previous owners. Luckily 350 vortecs are easy peezy to get and work on.

All in all I'm just rolling with the punches, There's always next season. and gives me something to due this off season, come back next season with fresh tanks and engines ready to go!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
No go on breaking it loose, decided not to force it and delay the inevitable. Going to have the engine pulled and tear it down to see whats the issue.
 

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Damn i'd be at a point that i want to tear it down to find out why sad part is you loose a season.
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
Thats kind of where my head is at now, makes no sense one engine would be locked up and the other fine after only sitting 5 months. Something is telling me I'm going to find what it is was a mechanical failure rather then rust, but that's my gut feeling.
Going to go this weekend and prep the engines to be pulled, the boat needs to be moved in order to position the boat lift in position in order to lift the engines out. Will bring them home and tear down the bad one and see whats what. Going to refresh the other one. Most likely will replace fuel tanks as the ones in the boat are original from 1980. Once bilge is empty, will power wash, clean and paint the bilge area. Clean up the electrical, then install tanks and engines.
 
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