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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Most anglers, Party boat, charter and private are happy to see that the weather till now has been cooperative, reasonably warm, and more importantly a great mix of bottom species. Cod, Ling, Blackfish, Sea Bass,Poprgies just to name a few. This thread is intended to help understand what it takes to put a few more fish in the cooler, and which rod to use.
Material: We could argue all day, which is better, Graphite, E Glass? The primary difference between each material is that graphite fibers are "stiffer" giving a "stiff" feel to a rod, while E Glass is "softer" giving a soft feel to the rod. Manufacturers would have you believe such nonsense that certain materials are "lighterweight", but the actual difference is minimal. Some claim more "sensitive". Sensitivity has little to do with a fishing rod, it is an ability.
A skilled fisherman can feel all he needs to feel with the least sensitive rod, simply because he knows what he is feeling.
Rod Taper: This is the single most important characteristic of a rod that performs well. Fast taper is one where the rod generally bends in the tip area. The bottom portion barely bends. This is a great action for Tuna, and other top water species. As fish runs off line, the angler can put a good deal of pressure on the fish to slow him down and tire him.
Medium or slow tapers bend more in the mid section. So often someone says, "I want a fast taper rod to go bottom fishing". This leads me to believe that the person is not aware of what fast realy means. The advantage of medium to slower tapers is that they give a "shock absorbing" flex as you reel in a fish. As the fish attempts to "surge" away from you, the extra "give", or what I call the "slow load" helps to prevent a lip hooked fish from becoming dislodged, line breakage, and in fact works like a fine tuned drag on a reel.
There needs to be a little give and take. E glass has a natural ability to perform as described. Graphite can as well, but it must have a slower taper. Look at the legend/description of the rod that you own. If it says "Fast" and it's graphite, this is a sure combination of "more lost fish". High modulas graphite flexes even less, making higher cost graphite rods perform to lower levels than expected. Low modulas [ a measure ment of resistance to bending, or stiffness]teamed with medium taper makes the best performing graphite rod. When a Blackfish goes bananas, pulls out all his tricks to get you back into the wreck, just engage the proper taper, and in short time he will know he is in big trouble. If a doormat Fluke starts to go into "evasive tactics", the natural shock absorbing qualities of "slow load" tapers will give you the best chance of getting him to the boat.
Slow Load=Dead Fish
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FISH POISON RODS
~TOG RODS, FLUKE RODS, TUNA RODS, STRIPER RODS~

Kevin Bogans Tackle 732 892 8822
212 Broadway
"the road to the Mighty Atlantic"
Point Pleasant Beach NJ 08742
 

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That's exactly why I came to you to have my Fish Poison Tog stick built. I have numerous "high end" rods, but always felt limited w/ their fast/stiff graphite action. Paired w/ spectrum line and all that trophy fish has to do is a few big tail flaps and he's home free. Fast/stiff graphite blank + no stretch spectra= many pulled BIG fish!
 

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Exactly the kind of post that is respected from our advertisers on the barn. Informative, helpful, and helps him at the same time.

Thats why I have a fleet of Bogan custom calstar wind on rods!!!



Good Post Kevin
 

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Great post Mr. Fish Poison! :thumbsup: No intentions of hijacking here, I am sure Kevin knows that.

The info here is good, accurate info. I don't care what you make a rod blank out of, the taper is the most important factor. While, unlike Kevin, I have fallen for a few of these new styles of rods.....I have always disliked the shorter lengths on them. I see the wise cracks made from certain people regarding my thoughts on the longer lengths, but the truth is......the right taper will make a rod. If you like your rod at 5'....you will love it at 6' or 6'6". That's just the truth!

Kevin has found a line of rod blanks that are lighter than most of the "lightest graphite rod blanks" out there. He did not do this by chance, he found them through experience. While we may not agree 100% on the newer stuff, I would say we agree 90% on it. There are plenty of $50 rod blanks being sold for $250 today, because of marketing skills, not building skills.

Great post Kevin. This is why I went searching for the longer lengths on the new stuff......because it works much better than the blanks we see for the most part. It's also why I will send people your way, when I see they are looking for what you have to offer. If ever you retire, I will be the first one looking for the Fish Poison Secrets!!! :D:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Most people really dont know what to look for in any given rod. Larger factories generally push features that are not relative. Graphite being an ounce lighter doesnt mdean anything after installing grips, seats, guides , and then after the 20 oz reel, the 5 oz sinker, hopefully a 10, 20 lb fish, the lightweight arguement goes out the window.
Sean, your wind on rods are fast. That is what gives them the ability to put a load of steam on a hard chargng Tuna. You need to have a lot of power in the *** end of the rod. Many inshore fisheries require a touch more "shock absortion" or give and take. Bottom species generally look to run back into a wreck or rock pile. If they succeed, and you get tangled in the structure, your chances of getting him back out are slim. The fish fighting process generall requires a little more negotiation. Thats why they have drags on reels.
Tom, you can always shorten a rod, but most skilled guys agree that the longer you can make a rod, to within reason, the better it handles a fish. Material is secondary.
 
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