You will need the following; (chart/white)
white Ostrich plume
pearl flashabou
white bucktail
1 1/2 inch pearl Tri-Lobal
chartruese bucktail
olive bucktail
chartruese or olive mirror flash or flashabou
1/4 inch diameter lead dumbell eyes, red with black pupils
a high quality hook, size is your choice, for stripers I use a Tiemco 811S, 3/0
Place the hook in the vise to tie on the eyes. Hook point down (clouser style), tie in the eyes, give yourself enough room behind the hook eye to make a nice head. Tie in your eyes with nice tight figure 8 wraps and cent the joint with a penetrating crazy glue. Not Zap A Gap, it does't penetrate the wraps as well.
As you tie in the eyes, carry the thread back to the hook bend to give the hook shank a frictionous coating. Loosely spaced wraps are fine. Bring the thread back to behind the hook eye.
Arrange a small clump of white bucktail, long enough to extend about a half a hook shank beyond the hook bend from behind the hooks eye. Tie this in behind the hooks eye and carry it over the lead eyes and along the hooks shank. Leave the thread there. Wet this "little tail" with cement and let dry. This little clump of now stiffined bucktail will prevent the ostrich from fouling.
Tie in, behind the lead eyes, a clump of maybe a dozen hearls worth of the white ostrich. It should extend about 4-5 inches beyond the hooks bend on a 3/0. Now, tie in a half dozen strands of pearl flash- a- bou that extends to the end of the ostrich tail. Top this off with another clump of similar size ostrich, I now saturate the ostrich tie in area with penetrating head cement. Leave the thread at the hook bend.
Now tie in the end of the Tri Lobal and palmer the tri to behind the lead eyes. Important! as you palmer the tri forward, stroke the fibers backward on each wrap. Secure the tri soundly behind the eyes.
Jump the thread to in front of the lead eyes. Rotate the hook to hook point up positon. Now, take your scissors and cut out a channel into the tri, along the hooks shank, from the lead eyes all the way back to the bend. This allows the winging material to lay more closely to the hooks shank. This is important to give the fly a naturaly sleek look.
Now for the wing. Tie in (behind the hooks eye) a clump of chartruese BT. About a matchstick diameters size. Be certain the fine ends of the BT ends just beyond the hooks bend point. Now, tie in about 6 strands of flash, this should as well, end about an eigth of an inch beyond the bend point of the hook. Now take a slightly smaller clump of olive bucktail and tie it in so that it's fine ends end up just in front of the hooks bend. Form a nice tapered thread head and secure. Coat the head with penetrating head cement.
You must now let your head cement dry thoroughly, the outgassing of the cement will continue for a good 6 hours. When you're sure it's dry, coat the head with Devcon, clear, two ton epoxy and let it cure well, about 8 hours. I swear by a drying wheel.
Your "Yank's Assassin" is complete. I always take the cured fly and run it under hot water from the faucet. I stroke the fly while in the stream with a toothbrush (my wifes) but she doesn't know it. Do not touch the fly while wet, lay it in it's very wet, tight form on a paper towel till totaly dry. Once it does dry it'll look very thin and sleek, lift it off the towel and litteraly flick the tail. It'll relax nicely and have the form we've all come to love. The fly dry, looks nothing like the magicaly seductive form it will take when twitched thru the brine. Good luck and I'll await your specific questions should you have any.
You good now Chris, you pain in the Assinator? Enjoy guys. These things will catch you fish. Other colors are available, when you get the pattern down I'll do the differant color combo's. :thumbsup:
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white Ostrich plume
pearl flashabou
white bucktail
1 1/2 inch pearl Tri-Lobal
chartruese bucktail
olive bucktail
chartruese or olive mirror flash or flashabou
1/4 inch diameter lead dumbell eyes, red with black pupils
a high quality hook, size is your choice, for stripers I use a Tiemco 811S, 3/0
Place the hook in the vise to tie on the eyes. Hook point down (clouser style), tie in the eyes, give yourself enough room behind the hook eye to make a nice head. Tie in your eyes with nice tight figure 8 wraps and cent the joint with a penetrating crazy glue. Not Zap A Gap, it does't penetrate the wraps as well.
As you tie in the eyes, carry the thread back to the hook bend to give the hook shank a frictionous coating. Loosely spaced wraps are fine. Bring the thread back to behind the hook eye.
Arrange a small clump of white bucktail, long enough to extend about a half a hook shank beyond the hook bend from behind the hooks eye. Tie this in behind the hooks eye and carry it over the lead eyes and along the hooks shank. Leave the thread there. Wet this "little tail" with cement and let dry. This little clump of now stiffined bucktail will prevent the ostrich from fouling.
Tie in, behind the lead eyes, a clump of maybe a dozen hearls worth of the white ostrich. It should extend about 4-5 inches beyond the hooks bend on a 3/0. Now, tie in a half dozen strands of pearl flash- a- bou that extends to the end of the ostrich tail. Top this off with another clump of similar size ostrich, I now saturate the ostrich tie in area with penetrating head cement. Leave the thread at the hook bend.
Now tie in the end of the Tri Lobal and palmer the tri to behind the lead eyes. Important! as you palmer the tri forward, stroke the fibers backward on each wrap. Secure the tri soundly behind the eyes.
Jump the thread to in front of the lead eyes. Rotate the hook to hook point up positon. Now, take your scissors and cut out a channel into the tri, along the hooks shank, from the lead eyes all the way back to the bend. This allows the winging material to lay more closely to the hooks shank. This is important to give the fly a naturaly sleek look.
Now for the wing. Tie in (behind the hooks eye) a clump of chartruese BT. About a matchstick diameters size. Be certain the fine ends of the BT ends just beyond the hooks bend point. Now, tie in about 6 strands of flash, this should as well, end about an eigth of an inch beyond the bend point of the hook. Now take a slightly smaller clump of olive bucktail and tie it in so that it's fine ends end up just in front of the hooks bend. Form a nice tapered thread head and secure. Coat the head with penetrating head cement.
You must now let your head cement dry thoroughly, the outgassing of the cement will continue for a good 6 hours. When you're sure it's dry, coat the head with Devcon, clear, two ton epoxy and let it cure well, about 8 hours. I swear by a drying wheel.
Your "Yank's Assassin" is complete. I always take the cured fly and run it under hot water from the faucet. I stroke the fly while in the stream with a toothbrush (my wifes) but she doesn't know it. Do not touch the fly while wet, lay it in it's very wet, tight form on a paper towel till totaly dry. Once it does dry it'll look very thin and sleek, lift it off the towel and litteraly flick the tail. It'll relax nicely and have the form we've all come to love. The fly dry, looks nothing like the magicaly seductive form it will take when twitched thru the brine. Good luck and I'll await your specific questions should you have any.
You good now Chris, you pain in the Assinator? Enjoy guys. These things will catch you fish. Other colors are available, when you get the pattern down I'll do the differant color combo's. :thumbsup:
