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I have a question about whether I should peg my sinkers when fishing worms and grubs etc...

I understand that it is important when the goal is to get the bait through alot of vegatation, but other than that is it important to peg??

Thanks in advance for your opinion
 

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I agree with most of the others. Pegged for flipping and pitching, and areas with more cover that I want the bait to penetrate down through.

Non pegged for open water, and areas that I want the bait to rise up off the bottom.
 

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Great Info and I agree 100% with these guys on the times to peg and to use a non pegging presentation with bullet weights
 

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I have some different thoughts about pegging.

Unpeg whenever possible.

That is if you're fishing sparse cover or pulling along parallel to cover rather than through it. You can also put a bead between your weight and your hook for extra CLACK when unpegged. I like the Tru Tungsten Force Beads but you can raid your wife's craft kit. She won't notice.

Larry Nixon never pegs his sinker directly on the bait.

Some people, including myself, are now using the bobber stops as pegging options. The bobber stops don't harm line like the old toothpick method and you can put it up the line a cm or two so the sinker has a limited distance to slide. When a fish is on the weight will push the rubber stop up without abrasion to the line.

http://image.basspro.com/images/images2/81000/81201.jpg
 

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I peg in two situations.

When skipping, you want the weight and bait to stay together, or it just doesn't work.

pitching to heavy cover, I like to have an unpegged weight when possible, but the weight wants to fall faster than the lure. You need to keep them together so you can feel most bites. If the lure's a foot away from the weight,two things happen. You feel more what the weights doing and less of what the lure's doing, and you end up with more line that you have to move to get a hookset. Picture it, when the weight falls faster than the lure, your line goes down from the rod to the weight, then up to the lure. If that distance from the weight to the lure gets to be too far, you're not going to be able to get the line tight enough to set the hook.

If I feel like I can keep the weight tight to the lure, then I'll not peg it. When the fish bites, I'd rather have the fish pull line through the weight and only have the bait itself in its mouth. If the weight gets into the fish's mouth, I have to pull the weight out to get a hookset, that means the fish's mouth has to open a little, giving more chance for a missed hookset.

At the same time, if the weight seperates from the lure before the bite, the fish might bite the weight itself, 100% guaranteeing a missed fish, or if it hits the bait, my connection to the bait is disrupted and i might not feel the bite as well.

There are times to peg and times not to peg. You have to figure out what those times are to you.
 

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I have some different thoughts about pegging.

Unpeg whenever possible.

That is if you're fishing sparse cover or pulling along parallel to cover rather than through it. You can also put a bead between your weight and your hook for extra CLACK when unpegged. I like the Tru Tungsten Force Beads but you can raid your wife's craft kit. She won't notice.

Larry Nixon never pegs his sinker directly on the bait.

Some people, including myself, are now using the bobber stops as pegging options. The bobber stops don't harm line like the old toothpick method and you can put it up the line a cm or two so the sinker has a limited distance to slide. When a fish is on the weight will push the rubber stop up without abrasion to the line.

That seems like a pretty good idea never though of using them for sinkers.:)
 
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