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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
got bit by fly fishing bug.i did a little fresh water fly fishing a few years ago,think i want to try the salt since that is really the place i love to fish.i have a l.l. bean 6wt(i think).wondering what wt.what brands etc?can it be done for 200-250 bucks?all info greatly appreciated.oh ya i'm talkin
back bay stipers,bluefish,weakfish.
 

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B4...you will get alot of opinions on this topic.

In my limited experience flyfishing the salt (4 years), I believe a 6 wt is too light unless you are chasing snapper blues and spike weakies.

I started with a 9wt and liked it. After I got better at it I moved down to an 8wt and love it.

Yes, you can start off with a relatively inexpensive set up....Temple Fork Rod, Tioga or Okuma reel and basic essentials for about $250.

Good luck.
 

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Yup
 

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I agree and there is nothing wrong with looking around for used equipment. Many are alway upgrading. I personally like the Temple-Fork rods. I use them on my guide boat and the action is good and the warranty is great. No questions and they fix or replace the rod for a small fee.

Hope you can find a good set up and get into it. Our club, South Jersey Coast Fly Anglers, is a great place to learn about fly fihsing. We have casting practise before monthly meetings and go over a lot of how to. You will find many people who will help you increase your skills.
 

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You've got some good advice. I also advise the TFO. 8 or 9 wt. Try to get to the club meetings. Good guys, good instruction & information & good equipment, to try. Wish you well.
 

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don't forget to get or make a stripping basket, which is very different from freshwater, especially if you are fishing the surf or around rocks. Not as important if you're fishing the backwaters or from boats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks everybody,TFO looks like the way to go.looking at lefty kreh sig. series $99.00.
sounds like a good starter rod,plus a hundred
bucks is what i like to spend on a rod (everytime i spend more something happens,murphys law).okuma and tioga also look great.looking at okuma helios($145) or tioga ($155).any barn sponsers sell these,would like to put my mitts on them and get a feel.going to try to make it to sjcfa meetings(little bit of a haul on aweek nite).ihave sjffc (or whatever)in salem county.bill couch told me they have some salt guy's that would be glad to help.thanks again.

[ 03-04-2006, 12:43 PM: Message edited by: B4LORAN ]
 

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I would go for the Tioga. Have a couple of okumas and mechanics are great. Finish hasn't held up that well. Did buy a cheap composite that they make and it has held up good but, my Tiogas still look and work well and they have a lot of fish action on them.
 

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As for line you may want to look at shooting heads. Rio makes a nice running line for $35,then you can change 30 or 15ft. shooting heads($15) that connect with loop to loop connections.The advantage being that you can change from floating, to intermeiate or sinking by just changing the head.
 

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For a beginner, I am afraid that I must strongly advise AGAINST a shooting head system! You will be challenged enough without dealing with a hinge.
The best lines I have been using are Corland 444 Precision Taper floating and clear intermediate.
For a beginner, say that you get a 9wt outfit...Try rigging it with a 10wt line from the above manufacturer. You will LOVE THESE LINES!!
 

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I disagree Frank. As long as a beginner starts with good instruction and the right mechanics, they will get used to any type line with practice.I feel no hinge effect once I feel the loops go thru the eyes, its just like one line.I like feeling the loops because I know right where the head starts. Floating lines are fun with poppers dawn and dusk,but the sinking line is the bread and butter line and simply catches more fish.
 

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I ask again. Does anyone have a shooting line that "feels good"? We have hashed shooting lines to death & I personally do not know anyone who uses them. Know a lot who tried & deserted. My .03cents.
 

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I thought the idea was to keep the head in, so you can 'shoot' the running line out.

Are you guys false casting with head all the way out and the running line in your loop?
 

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Right now I"m set up with Rio T-14 sinking head on a 9wt.using all 30ft.of head at 420grains.You can cut it down to 15ft.Depending on how far you want to cast.If Iwant to cast far I let the head slip out of eyes and it shoots like a bullet.I"ll bring to to the casting clinics when we start for anyone who wants to try it.
 

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I use a depth charge. Dont have to worry about loop to loop connection. Loads rod with about a foot of running line out of the last guide and throws all 110' like a laser. Best method is to roll cast the head up after the retrieve and immediatly start your backcast. Single haul on the forward and watch it fly.
 

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Sparse, shooting heads may not be as sweet to cast as a good one piece line.But when fishing from a small boat or yak or on foot, where space is a problem you can carry one rod and changing heads is easier than changing spools or reels.Subjects need to be revisted once in a while becuase there are always new people on this board and getting into fly fishing, I think we all agree thats a good thing.
 

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....For a beginner, learning a simple casting stroke? Most parts of a casting lesson involve holding a loop in the air and learning how to keep the loop tight. After all, the true mechanics of the cast revolve around the tight loop coupled with high line speed.

A sinking line, as said earlier, needs to be roll cast before you can pick it up. It's casting stroke needs to be slower, with a wider loop. No worry about line speed as you are simply not concerned with holding the line in the air. The weighted line will shoot the running line very well....
But this poor guy is just trying to get started in fly casting. Don't you think that by suggesting these lines the deck is being stacked against him? Different casting strokes? I had a hard enough time simply trying to get the timing down with one casting stroke...After all, roll casting a 450 sinking line, then picking it up for a cast IS NOT the easiest way to learn to fly fish.
I DO AGREE that shooting heads are very usefull, however. I DO own a shooting head system. I always fish it when we travel and I fish in new conditions. When I know what conditions to expect, I switch to full lenth lines, but that is simply my preference. But either way, It's all good.

[ 03-07-2006, 07:24 PM: Message edited by: Frank Mihalic ]
 

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I think alot of people benifitted from this discussion.In the begining I suggested that he look at shooting heads as an option, no doult he knows alot more about fly fishing now than he did when he started.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
i sure do know a lot more,and realize the more you learn the more you realize how much you don't know.something like a golf swing.going to try the KISS method(keep it simple stupid).figured one piece lines, spare spools.i have a machine shop and have made a ton of parts similar to a spool(i did a lot of aircraft + satalite work).fly reels have always interested me so maybe i'll start by making a spool,then someday maybe a reel.i know i'm blowing the budget but when don't we on fishing.still have not found who sells tioga reels.thank you all again.all this and we have just begun.can't wait to get to apply this on some fish.
 

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Got Bass, I think it would make a good hands on topic for one of our fly SJCFA meetings when it is light outside.

We could do like we did last year, where we had many different set ups and individuals could try a number and see what they liked and didn't like.

I agree, new anglers must learn basics before they try other lines. I think it would make for a interesting meeting and we all could learn from seeing and doing.
 
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