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Discussion Starter · #1 ·


Now and then someone asks "whats the best rod for this or that"?
Hopefully this photo will provide at least an answer or two. Each is an offshore rod with roller guides. Generally a 30 or 50 lb rod with these sort of guides should be able to catch a tuna or shark of anywhere to 30- on up to over a hundred pounds. No doubt there is tremendous pressure put on the guides themselves, as the guides do distribute pressure across the "ARK" of the rod. Note on the top rod the tip of the arrow as it relates to point A. You will notice the epoxy coating where it comes off the red wrap. It is visible as the epoxy has made the white blank slightly amber in that area. If you were to rub your fingernail, or finger across this area you will feal a LEDGE, or Bump. This is COMMON on ALL rods, it is where the epoxy ends on the wraps. Note on the top rod point B. While it is difficult to see in the photo, there is an epoxy ledge there as well. If you rub your finger across this area it will feel like the other end of the wrap. THATS the FLAW. The method used is called "underwrap/epoxy, overwrap epoxy". When a factory builds a lot of rods they will generally underwrap the guide area,then epoxy it. After the finish is cured, they go back and wrap over the "SMOOTH" undercoat. This speeds up production as it is easier to wrap over a smooth surface. Flaw #2; they then epoxy the overwrap area only, leaving a LEDGE under the guide. This guide under a lot of general wear and tear will loosen under its windings as the epoxy does not not have enough Penetration through the windings to FIRMLY hold it. The Aqua rod at point C has no ledge under the guide feet. This rod was dry wrapped under, dry wrapped over, epoxy coated once with a method called "Torch penetration". That is the epoxy is heat treated, making it "FLOW better around the guide. The metal being heated as well in this process makes for a much stronger bond, dissalowing any movement or "Wobbling" under the overwrap. With only one coat of epoxy, the Aqua rod is secured far greater than the factory stick. A second coat of finish is then applied to add extra strenth and a DEEP GLOSS appearance. The first epoxy teqnique is used on many rods, and now will be easy to recognize. If you had a brand new factory rod like the one pictured you can actually "wobble" the guides with your hands under little pressure. It looks good in the store, but once they start SHIFTING, they are at a point of no return. On a $40-$75 rod you would expect this type of work. If the rod cost is over $100 and you see the "INNER LEDGE", its just trouble down the road. I know quite a few people who went Factory with their offshore rods and the guides are all out of aligment. Can you imagine buying a nice car, you go to pick it up and there are bald tires on it? It's the same here. Comments welcome, hopefully one of the custom rod guys would like to add their thoughts. Kevin Bogan
 

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Kevin, when you say a bump, do you mean literally a "bump", or just a difference in diameter? i just bought several high end rods, from a company in hawaii and also from a reputable company stateside whom i shall not mention if in fact their products are inferior. i just went out to the garage and ran my finger over the guides, and on the inside, there is an area where the rod seems to slope inward, but no discernable "bump", as you say, is this normal? it looks very similar to the difference in widths that you can sort of see in the second rod in your picture. if necessary, i can post pics, but i'd rather not, as the rods are somewhat distinctive. thanks in advance:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Pelagic, I would guess coming out of hawaii that you probably got something good. The ledge on the outside of the wraps away from center is where epoxy ends, should be a Sharp ledge. If the inner part is sharp as well thats not good. The entire running length of the wrap should not have any DROPOFFS near the middle, only on the outside of the wrap. Its more evident on a lot of factory rods that coat their ceramic guides that way. I'll post a few more pics today or tomorow of ceramics, its easier to see.
 
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I usually put a light coat on my underwraps, it makes it so much easier to do overwraps. I usually use size A for overwraps because I think it looks better than size D, and wrapping size A over size A is easier with the coat of epoxy. Then when I do my overwraps, I go back over the underwrap as well. Apply some heat and make sure there are no bubbles around the guide foot. It works for me, but I only build rods for myself so I don't need to worry about how someone else might abuse them :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
extract, you are no doubt brushing the entire length of the wrap area. The extra time you dedicate to the area will no doubt make yours a durable rod. Kevin Bogan
 
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