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i have a 98 evinrude 115 spl thing runs like a top was wondering if i put some type of modefied wheel on her if she might perform even better!!! striped ones gotta be dying to start creeping north gonna be a hell of a spring c'mon!
 

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yes, aluminum props will flex while underload. stainless will not. you will notice a huge difference in the hole shot and top end. also in fuel economy. the down side is be carefull not to run over anything such as logs or other submergerd objects. unlike aluminum which will bend or dent the stainless wont. you will do damage to the internals of the motor(shaft, ect) if you do go with stainless be sure to get it milled every few years to ensure longivity of your motor and of course fuel economy.
 

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Im not a motor head but just asked this question 2 days ago about my prop..was told it would be $454.00..:eek:...I asked about performance and he said that if I was in a race boat and needed 2 or so miles per hours at top end, do it....well im not so it stays the same..im sure some one on here has good info on this and I am also curious....
 

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The prop is the main connection between your boat and the water. You want that to be done as efficiently as possible not only for speed but for motor longevity and fuel consumption. I think it is worth the time to dial in the right prop for your ride.
 

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. I think it is worth the time to dial in the right prop for your ride.
thats the other thing i forgot to mention. the correct pitch and number of blades is very important:thumbsup: i have 200 opti thats a 2 stroke and has alot of torqe. running a aluminum prop on my setup would get me by but the stainless as i stated provides better performance and takes the load off the motor plus provides longivity. I have the Mercury Mirage Plus, and spent a pretty penny on it. Its worth every bit:D:D
 

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Just my opinion i'm no motor head by a long shot. I'd have to agree with snakehead and hooker on this one. Iv'e spent a lot of years on the water, owned a few different rigs, and spent a lot of time on different rigs of my fathers too. The way I look at it is, it's only a matter of time before you hit something on the water, I'd rather bend my prop then my drive shaft. I have seen first hand what hitting a PVC pipe that was floating in the water (oyster bed marker) did to a buddy of mine's stainless steel prop, and in turn to his drive shaft. I have hit a lot of different things in my day and never seen em coming. I mean how fast do you really have to go to get to your fishing spot, and will it really get you there that much faster?
 

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Choosing the correct size and pitch prop is a whole course is Marine Science, and a subject that everyone’s opinion is the correct one:D.
SS props offer a lot more advantages then just looking pretty hanging off the back of the boat. Choose the correct one and take care of it and it will give back many years of service.
 

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Hit a rock last summer. It would have busted up the guts of the lower unit on my right motor if it had stainless prop. I think if you are going to be running in deeper water offshore most of the time then stainless is a no brainer. If your like me and run around the back, like to fish the jettys and run the ocean and the bay then I would not go stainless because at some point you are going to tag something. I did have to buy a new prop and hub but I was spared the cost of a lower.
 

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I get a kick out of you guys that say if you hit something with a stainless wheel it does a lot more damage.They both have a lower unit in front and both have a rubber hub.You're gonna do just as much damage in either case.:huh:
 

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Here is my 2 cents. If money is no object and you are not typically in shallow water full of obstructions go with the stainless otherwise go with aluminum.
Personally on a 115 Rude I would just stick with alum.. Some of today's manufacturers use much better manufacturing processes such as press casting and can produce a much stronger aluminum prop than years ago. Without getting technical, these props can give you close to stainless performance without the cost.
So if you are running a 600hp supercharged Baja going 80 mph then a stainless is worth it and practically necessary. Some of today's larger, high torque outboards like Opti's and Etecs can benefit but I would venture to say you would not notice a difference on your motor. If you did notice a diff it would more likely be from a size or design perspective rather than the material the prop is made from.
An alum prop and hub are going to run about $170-250 while a stainless is going to run you $450-550. I'd go with aluminum and save the difference for gas or a new reel!:thumbsup:
What kind of performance are you looking for? Holeshot? Higher top end speed?
 

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Just my opinion i'm no motor head by a long shot. I'd have to agree with snakehead and hooker on this one. Iv'e spent a lot of years on the water, owned a few different rigs, and spent a lot of time on different rigs of my fathers too. The way I look at it is, it's only a matter of time before you hit something on the water, I'd rather bend my prop then my drive shaft. I have seen first hand what hitting a PVC pipe that was floating in the water (oyster bed marker) did to a buddy of mine's stainless steel prop, and in turn to his drive shaft. I have hit a lot of different things in my day and never seen em coming. I mean how fast do you really have to go to get to your fishing spot, and will it really get you there that much faster?

Im not trying to be a smartass but how do you hit stake?(oyster ground marker) I know their are a few that are not extactly stickingng staight out of the water. Ive run the bay more than a few times a night and have bumped off them(by hitting the side of the boat). I do have radar, but somtimes it can be scanty at best. Also its not always about running max rpm, for example my rig weighs over 4100lbs(wet in the water) fully loaded that 116 gallons of fuel and gear. If i ran an aluminum prop i know for sure it would flex. Again, i am not bashing your imput or insulting your intellegence, just sharing my experience and knowledge:thumbsup:
 

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Rusty - what do you mean by

"if you do go with stainless be sure to get it milled every few years to ensure longivity of your motor and of course fuel economy." :huh:
 

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Rusty - what do you mean by

"if you do go with stainless be sure to get it milled every few years to ensure longivity of your motor and of course fuel economy." :huh:
I had my prop sent out to be resurfaced, and polished up. looks like its brand new. after those years of use, the edges got worn, and the surface had oxidation spots. south jersey boatworks in millville hooked me up. i forget exactly what measurement they took off the edge to take some of the load off the motor. If your interested contact matt.
 

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From what I have read in many of the publications, the gain in performance is on the order of 1-3 percent with the higher numbers coming from very powerful engines. For me, the cost of a pair to fit my df115's is not worth it. They do look great and can make some improvements but just cost too dam much. When my 3 bladed ones are worn out I will switch to 4 blade but aluminimum and not ss. For my rig, power cat. the only makes around 25 knots they will be just fine and a lot cheaper
 

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I had a guy from a boat shop recently tell me to abandon my stainless prop for aluminum for the reasons mentioned (no flex = gear damage). I would love to know what prop (# of blades / pitch) gives me the best overalll performance. I'd always like to go faster using the same RPMs, but fuel efficiency is the name of the game these days.
 

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Stainless wheels bend when you hit something. Aluminum breaks - as in the pic above. The ss props can be reconditioned. I run a merc Enertia on my boat and have a mirage plus as a spare. The hubs let go before lower unit damage occurs.

You need to prop your boat so that it reaches the mfg max RPM at wot. Then tweak from there. Adding pitch decreases the wot rpms. Decreasing is the opposite. An inch change in pitch equates to approximately 200-300 rpms.

Make it run happy at ordinary cruising speeds with your typical load within the constraints of staying close to the mfg WOT rpms.
 
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