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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need a 4x8 sheet or something real close to that size.I need to make new seats for my run-about up front as well as a new floor hatch.Both were replaced before NOT with Marine or pressure treated. E-Mail me at [email protected] Thanks Dave
 

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2manytoysdave said:
I need a 4x8 sheet or something real close to that size.I need to make new seats for my run-about up front as well as a new floor hatch.Both were replaced before NOT with Marine or pressure treated. E-Mail me at [email protected] Thanks Dave
Regular plywood is made with the same glue as marine grade. Pressure treated does not work or play well with resins, either polyester or epoxy.

The only difference in marine grade ply and regular ply is the amount of voids in it. When not used in hull or deck applications (structural) you are kinda wasting your money. The real difference is the nuber of plys for a given thickness...just look for better than building grade ply as you are looking for more plys than the minimal amount usually found in construction plywood. Really for seats...any ply is OK if properly sealed with resin and there are no water collection points.
 

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Try Diamond M Lumber in Mt Holly. They have several different marine ply types and thicknesses in stock. I have purchased Okume and Fir marine ply from them.
 

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Capt. Scott said:
Regular plywood is made with the same glue as marine grade. Pressure treated does not work or play well with resins, either polyester or epoxy.

The only difference in marine grade ply and regular ply is the amount of voids in it. When not used in hull or deck applications (structural) you are kinda wasting your money. The real difference is the nuber of plys for a given thickness...just look for better than building grade ply as you are looking for more plys than the minimal amount usually found in construction plywood. Really for seats...any ply is OK if properly sealed with resin and there are no water collection points.

I couldn't AGREE with you more!!! Well stated.....
 

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Has anyone used any of that new plywood that Lowes sells? I have several sheets of 3/4 inch and must say I am very impressed with the quality. It is only a dollar a sheet more expensive than BC and is really pretty. I have seen virtually no voids and the exterior is very nice.

I think it is called Auroco or something like that
 

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I ended up ripping out all of the wood in my boats and replaced it with 1/4" aluminum. It never goes bad. Stainless steel rivets, bolts, nuts and screws to hold it all down. Fazzio's in Glassboro had the powder coated sheets for way less than pressure treated plywood.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Capt. Scott said:
Regular plywood is made with the same glue as marine grade. Pressure treated does not work or play well with resins, either polyester or epoxy.

The only difference in marine grade ply and regular ply is the amount of voids in it. When not used in hull or deck applications (structural) you are kinda wasting your money. The real difference is the nuber of plys for a given thickness...just look for better than building grade ply as you are looking for more plys than the minimal amount usually found in construction plywood. Really for seats...any ply is OK if properly sealed with resin and there are no water collection points.
I agree with ya and understand with what u r saying for the seats but what about for the ski locker on the floor.I know 3/4 will support the weight but what about rot?I plan on carpeting it fully I guess I should resin it as well. Thanks Dave
 

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2manytoysdave said:
I agree with ya and understand with what u r saying for the seats but what about for the ski locker on the floor.I know 3/4 will support the weight but what about rot?I plan on carpeting it fully I guess I should resin it as well. Thanks Dave
If 3/4 will support the weight...then 3/4 with a layer of cloth and resin on both sides will probably be 30%-50% stronger...the only thing about marine ply is that the lack of voids will not allow moisture to settle and promote rot. If you seal regular plywood well enough...then moisture will not collect in the voids.

Thanks Glassman...have learned quite a bit from you through the years...thanks for being so unselfish with your wisdom and experience!!!!!:D :D :D
 

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GUNMAN5142 said:
I ended up ripping out all of the wood in my boats and replaced it with 1/4" aluminum. It never goes bad. Stainless steel rivets, bolts, nuts and screws to hold it all down. Fazzio's in Glassboro had the powder coated sheets for way less than pressure treated plywood.
Can't argue with you on this one...we use LOT's of aluminum in our Sea Tow boats for ease of construction, fabrication and maintenance for longevity....can't be letting our customers down!!!!!:cool: :D :D :D
 

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If you want marine ply, Nacote Creek Marina in Port Republic stocks it. I believe he has 3 sizes. He is on rt.9 on the south bound side just before the Nacote Creek bridge. # is 609-652-9070
His name is Bill. Capt.Matt
 

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Interesting replys,

As an aside, what is the wieght factor of aluminium vs. glassed over ply?
Surely a consideration in a larger project?

Also does using aluminum with Stainless hardware require consideration of electrolisis, or only on a metal hull?

Amphibian (Tom)
 

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AMPHIBIAN said:
Interesting replys,

As an aside, what is the wieght factor of aluminium vs. glassed over ply?
Surely a consideration in a larger project?

Also does using aluminum with Stainless hardware require consideration of electrolisis, or only on a metal hull?

Amphibian (Tom)
Aluminum will most likely be lighter if designed down to actual engineering specs for strength....but remember if doing bow seats...you may need the weight for correct trim.

Yes...stainless and aluminum generally hate each other...but if you keep holes a bit oversized when bolting pieces together and use some kind of thread sealant if tapping (we use OMC gasket sealer or something like that...it's brown goo that never hardens and my oldtimer boss swears by it):D ...you should be OK....

Shouldn't affect the hull unless you are attaching to it and the bolt parts are underwater...but electrolysis will generally develope right at the stainless/aluminum connection.

Either way...poorly sealed wood will rot and poorly connected aluminum/stainless will galvanically react. Saltwater...gotta love it!!!:eek: :D
 
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