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I took the Yak out in GE Inlet last week to see how it performs in the breakers. I was amazed at the stability. It wants to stay upright.
I did take in some whitewater and will need to get a skirt.

Any suggestions on an inexpensive skirt that will keep the water out AND let me escape if I tip? (My Yak is not designed for rolling).

I also want to paint it. It is made of poly. What is the correct paint for poly?

I am thinking about getting an anchor. If I were to mount it on the outside, how much impact does it have on drag?
 

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Try calling Tills Paint They should have the adhesion promoter you need.

For your anchor get a cleat and put a aluminum plate under it. I would use 1/4" with a piece of rubber for a gasket. a 4" X 4" plate should do.

Check with Barrel for the skirt
 

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Egghead,
Here's a link for a good anchor system. I installed a similar one on my yak. It allows you to move the anchor from front to back with a pull of the rope. It's key that you can do this, as you will either want to be fishing into the current or with the current depending on which type of fishing you want to do.
Good luck.
http://www.texaskayakfisherman.com/rigging/cojo.html
 

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We use the W cleats for a quiker release. A few stainless fender washers under the plastic do fine. I dont like to use cherry aircraft rivets on a anchor cleat however. We use stainless bolts and aircraft lock nuts along with the fender washers. All that being said I havent used a anchor ever in 15 years of yak fishing. Always set up my drift to cover what I needed to cover. Since swithcing over to foot propulsion anchors have become prehistoric as I can hold my position in any current. NOTE; Anchoring can be very dangerous. I have pewrsonaly spoke to 3 people whos yaks were almost pulled verticaly under water when grass buildup on the anchor line caused a sudden and unpredictable nose dive of the yak under water. One guy claimed if he didnt have his knife available to quikly cut the line he would have been capsized.
Barrell
 

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Ditto on the anchor cleats ss bolts, fender washers and nyloks. Rivets will corrode.

Ditto2 on the dangerous anchor conditions. Had the yak almost go under at the WW Railroad bridge, that why the small scuba diver serrated edge knife is permantly affixed to the side of my seat.

Ditto3 on the "trolley" sysem for anchoring.

Recomend the small Danforth style anchor rather the common grapple. West Marine has a poly coated Danforth for PWC's, made by Wet Logic. Slip ring design. Danforth is better for our sandy bottoms.

Mount a small float to the floating line. release anchor when fighting fish (more fun)
 
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